Car Doctor Q&A

Q

My car needs an engine cleaning, there is rat dropping all over and the car smells a little when I start it. What is a standard price? I’m getting prices from $150 to $350.

A

There is no standard price, it depends on the extent of the cleaning and what you want the end result to look like. The lower price is likely a degreasing and then washing with a disinfectant type of soap. The more expensive price the full engine compartment, above and below the engine are cleaned. Once that is accomplished the engine bay is “waxed” and rubber hoses are treated to look like new. Depending on your car and how extensive the “damage” is will really determine the price.

Q

I have a 2000, Dodge 1500 Ramvan with a 318 engine. Tomorrow I need to order my fourth computer for this vehicle. The first one went out after 130,000 miles, but the next three only went about two to three years before failing. It starts with the engine quitting and me having to pull over, wait a few seconds, and then start it again. This happens a few times and then it won’t start at all. I’ve asked the Dodge dealer why this is happening, and they have no answer. This has made me feel Dodge is quite unreliable and I do not know if I’ll even keep this vehicle. Any thoughts why this is happening, or where to buy a replacement computer? Is mine the only Dodge van exhibiting this behavior?

A

Whenever I see multiple computer failures using quality or original equipment parts I also suspect some sort of electrical issue. With a 21-year-old vehicle there could be corrosion on any of the ground circuits causing a voltage drop. In addition, a very common fault with this vehicle is an intermittently faulty crankshaft position sensor. As the engine get hot the crankshaft position sensor signal will become erratic and cause the engine to stall and not restart until it cools off.

Q

After years of not driving I purchased a new to me used car. In the morning should you warm up your vehicle before you start driving?

A

Years ago, when cars had carburetors with fussy chokes and systems that warmed the air going into the carburetor, people would take a few minutes to warm up their vehicles to prevent stalling. Today with computerized fuel injection that isn’t necessary. Older vehicles also used thicker oil that didn’t flow in cold temperatures which would reduce lubrication in cold weather with today’s thinner multi-viscosity oils work much better to protect cold engines. My advice is every cold start the car should be treated like it was brand new. During winter temperature easy on the accelerator until you feel the heater getting warm. On warmer days by the time, you put on your seat belt and adjust the radio is about all the time you need to wait. Still, it never hurts to be gentle on the throttle for the first few miles of driving.