Spice is right for chef ’s signature cumin lamb
It’s best to tenderize thin lamb chops before marinating.
Peter Chang’s cumin lamb is fast and fierce, as much of the daily wok cooking goes at his newest restaurants in Arlington, Va., and Rockville, Md. In the old days in China, he says via business partner Gen Lee, meat for the dish was seasoned and roasted whole, for hours.
The restaurateurs decided to use thin lamb chops instead, marinat- ed briefly, stir-fried on the bone for more flavor, then vibrantly spiced with a last-minute hit of numbing Sichuan pepper and toasted ground cumin. Crisp-tender vegetables, dried chili peppers and cilantro complete the heap served sizzling hot. That, and Chang’s deft bamboo fish, have remained the most-ordered dishes on the menu.
The trick to keeping the lamb so tender? A few pre-marinade whacks with a meat pounder. Chang expects his diners to use the bones as handles, for easy eating.
Place 8 lamb rib chops (about 1 1/4 pounds total) between two large pieces of plastic wrap. Pound just enough to flatten the meat to half its original thickness; it should remain attached to the bone. Transfer to a zip-top bag, along with 2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine, 2 tablespoons light (thin) soy sauce, 1 tablespoon oyster sauce, 1 teaspoon Maggi Seasoning Sauce, several grinds of white pepper and 1/4 teaspoon ground Sichuan peppercorns. Seal and massage to coat. Cover and marinate for 15 to 30 minutes.
Toast 1 teaspoon cumin seedin a dry wok or skillet over medium heat, until fragrant and lightly browned, shaking the pan to avoid scorching. Cool, then grind in a dedicated spice grinder.
Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a wok over medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add 6 to 8 scallions (root ends trimmed; to taste). Cook, undisturbed, for 1 or 2 minutes, just until lightly browned, then discard the scallions, leaving as much oil in the pan as possible.
Add to the bowl of marinating lamb chops 1 medium carrot (trimmed and scrubbed well) and 1 medium white onion, both cut into thin matchsticks, 6 to 8 small dried chili peppers (to taste) and a small handful of short cilantro sprigs, tossing to coat.
Add the mixture to the hot scallion oil; increase the heat to medium-high. Stir-fry vigorously for 3 to 5 minutes, making sure the meat gets evenly seared but is not overcooked. Season the stir-fried lamb chops with the toasted, ground cumin and 1/4 teaspoon ground Sichuan peppercorns; stir-fry for 1 minute, until fragrant and well distributed.
Serve right away, garnished with a few more cilantro leaves.