PAN-GRILLED SALMON BURGERS

Makes 6 to 8 burgers 2 (6-ounce) cans wildcaught salmon 1 large red onion, diced small 1 to 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 to 2 sticks celery, destringed and finely chopped 2 tablespoons Italian breadcrumbs 1 large egg, beaten Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste A few dashes of Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Open the salmon cans, drain them well, coarsely flake the fish and place it in a stainless steel bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients, in that order. Mix with a fork or fingers just until everything comes together without overmixing.

Form into fairly thick patties the size of a burger bun. Place the patties on a large plate and refrigerate, uncovered, for 30 minutes to firm up. Heat a large well-seasoned cast-iron pan until fairly hot. (Or use a regular nonstick pan.) Add the oil and swirl with a nylon spatula to coat the pan.

Gently lower, individually, two to three patties at a time with a firm metal or plastic spatula. Saute until well browned on both sides, turning once. Since the fish is already cooked, the process should take just a few minutes.

Serve warm with sides dishes of your choice.

TIP: The salmon can be easily replaced with solid albacore tuna. Since tuna has a more assertive flavor, you may add ingredients like finely diced bell pepper or chopped cilantro. And for the salmon burger, too, the spices and veggies can be varied according to taste. Mashed potatoes are often added to make things hold better and provide heft.