This one recipe makes two of the best cookout buns around

Homemade buns change the cookout game. When I make the effort to serve grass-fed beef, artisanal sausages or even a noble carrot, I want the bun to be of the same quality. So, when I am asked to bring something to a gathering, I bring the buns — and I’m the hero of the potluck.

What led me to this? There is no more egregious supermarket gambit than the inequitable packaging of hot dogs and buns — you know, more of one than the other. For years I overcompensated, which meant there were sure to be slightly stale, squished, leftover buns in the far recesses of my freezer. Eventually, I learned to make my own.

This recipe makes a dozen hot dog buns or a dozen burger buns or a mix of the two, matching the needs of the group and the menu. (What a concept!) It takes only a couple of hours from start to finish, and most of that time is waiting for the dough to rise.

Even some accomplished cooks balk at the idea of working with yeast. For consistent results and less worry, I start with a leg up by mixing a “sponge” of dried yeast, warm water, a small amount of sugar and flour in a big bowl. It will bubble happily, and in a just a few minutes this foamy, enthusiastic head start will provide the boost that yields a dependably quick, successful rise.

I use SAF brand instant yeast. It is dependable and reasonably priced. Active dry yeast, the grocery store packet, can be used instead of instant, but the latter has become more popular in recent years as it can be added without first dissolving it in water. Still, I opt for the sponge approach for the oomph it adds. (Rapid-rise yeast is different from instant and active and will not work in this recipe.)

For burger buns, after portioning the dough, I roll compact balls and firmly press each one into a hockey puck shape. This shape, I have learned, will rise to make your classic domed bun with a flat bottom.

To make hot dog buns, I roll up rectangles of dough like a cigar, tucking in the pointy ends.

This afternoon baking project has a satisfying result — perfectly pillowy buns that are good for toasting and grilling and taking on all manner of condiments. Definitely a match for the good things you put inside them.