Meet the pizza influencer with a private jet and a troll army
Tito Ibarra traveled from Clemson, South Carolina, to New York City with one mission: to eat a slice from all 35 pizzerias at the One Bite Pizza Festival.
He was in the city for just about 12 hours: He landed in the morning, after driving two hours to Atlanta and taking a 2 1/2-hour flight. Then, he booked it to a minor-league baseball stadium in Coney Island for the outdoor event, which unfortunately coincided with Tropical Storm Ophelia.
“I love pizza,” Ibarra, 35, said emphatically, his soaked green bucket hat pushed back as his Instagram story cataloging slices eaten played on a loop in his hand.
Ibarra was among thousands of people, most of whom who paid at least $150 for a ticket, attending the festival on a rainy Saturday in late September, eating junior-size slices from dozens of renowned pizzerias like Lucali and Di
Fara in Brooklyn, Prince Street Pizza and John’s of Bleecker Street in Manhattan, and Sally’s Apizza and Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana in New Haven, Connecticut.
Beyond Ibarra, from a stage just inside the outfield fence, Dave Portnoy stoked the crowd. He thanked them for braving the elements, cursed at Mother Nature — and media organizations he believed were trying to take him down — and offered up a simple observation for a decidedly complicated festival: “People just want to have fun, eat pizza!”
That so many of the country’s best pizzerias were gathered in the same outfield was because of Portnoy, who travels around by private jet rating pizza shops in unvarnished social-media videos.
He may be better known as the caustic founder of Barstool Sports — with a history of misogynistic and racist remarks, and sexual misconduct accusations against him — but Portnoy is almost certainly the most influential person on the American pizza scene. With more than 3 million followers on TikTok and more than 136 million likes, he can change the fate of a pizzeria with a single utterance. A score higher than 8.9 can vault a shop to fame, filling it with customers for months.
“One review from Dave was enough for me to make enough money to remodel the whole place,” said Al Santillo, who owns Santillo’s Brick Oven Pizza in Elizabeth, New Jersey, standing under his tent kitchen on the festival field. And Portnoy did not even rate Santillo’s at the top of the scale. It received an 8.3, though a video of the review has been watched 3.5 million times on YouTube.
And far from being a deterrent to followers, pizzerias or sponsors, Portnoy’s profane, brash persona, and exposure it brings, is a chief part of his appeal. To a fan base of mostly younger white men, the immediate feel of his videos turns pizza reviewing into reality TV. And
even if it occasionally gets messy, it’s all content.
One bite, many opinions
Portnoy founded Barstool Sports in 2003 as a sports betting newspaper for Boston bars. Today, Barstool produces a head-spinning number of podcasts, videos and blogs about sports and culture, and its fans, known as Stoolies, don’t just consume the media, but also buy merchandise and are deeply invested in personalities and the behind-thescenes of the business itself.
Penn National, a gambling company, completed a purchase of Barstool this year for over half a billion dollars, making Portnoy rich. He recently spent $42 million on a house on Nantucket, reportedly the most expensive residential sale ever in Massachusetts.
In its current incarnation, however, Barstool is as much a reality show for bros — call it “The Real Sports-Adjacent Content Producers of New York” — and a gathering place for a demographic some have called “Barstool Republicans” as it is about sports.
Portnoy began the pizza project on a lark a decade ago, using a simple methodology: At pizzerias from Las Vegas to the Lower East Side of New York City, he shows up with a videographer, buys a pizza, walks outside and eats a slice. After a few minutes of bites and banter, Portnoy renders his verdict, on a scale from zero to 10 that includes decimals.
Today, Portnoy’s pizza mini-empire, One Bite, also includes an app in which fans and celebrities can also review pizzas.
Outside the pizza realm, though, Portnoy’s history is fraught.
Portnoy has made repeated sexist and aggressive statements, including an instance in which he said some women “kind of deserve to be raped.” There are multiple videos in which he has used the N-word, and he has publicly used homophobic slurs.
In articles that appeared on Insider in late 2021 and early 2022, six women accused him of sexual misconduct, including “frightening and humiliating” sexual encounters in which he choked and filmed them without their consent. Portnoy has said the sex was consensual, and sued the news outlet that reported the accusations. The lawsuit was ultimately dismissed.
“I disagree with almost all the assertions that have been made about me, and most of the time, actually, I’d say all the time, there’s a very reasonable, logical defense,” Portnoy said in an interview with The New York Times after the festival. In the past, he has said that many of his most controversial statements were jokes.
But in the One Bite world, Dave Portnoy and the pizza are something of a package deal.
For many pizzerias, that package seems just fine, though more than 10 that participated in the One Bite festival did not return calls or emails for comment.
Reviews that make or break
Criticizing Portnoy and Barstool does come with a known cost: the full wrath of the Barstool army. Social media is weaponized. Reporters, particularly female reporters, are harassed. Business emails, voicemail boxes and review sites are flooded. He has a self-proclaimed alter ego — “Grudge Dave” — that comes out when he is feuding, as when he and Barstool followers attacked SoulCycle and one of their instructors on Instagram and Twitter after
Portnoy said on a Barstool radio show that the instructor had slept with his girlfriend.
For many of the Portnoy faithful, these kinds of in-your-face tactics and social-media pugilism aren’t incidental — they’re the main event.
It’s this draw that makes some pizzerias Portnoy partisans, a bond that was only strengthened during the pandemic, when Portnoy, who has worked to cultivate a reputation as a savior of small businesses, raised what he said was more than $40 million to help ones that were struggling. You do not have to like Portnoy to see the effects of that fundraising.
In just one example, the owners of Tadich Grill, one of the oldest restaurants in San Francisco, declared Dave Portnoy Day after theirs was one of hundreds of restaurants that received tens of thousands of dollars, telling SF Gate, “Wherever in his heart he had the ability to make a meaningful difference for small businesses, he’s doing that, and for that we’re grateful.”
But just as easily as he can make, or support, small businesses, Portnoy can also tear them down them, seemingly just out of spite.
Five years ago he reviewed Sauce, a New York pizzeria, and gave it a very favorable 9.1. But this July, Matthew Silva, Sauce’s chief of staff, gave an interview to Slate expressing mixed feelings about the resulting crowds, i.e., Stoolies. Last month Portnoy re-reviewed Sauce, criticizing the “flop” of the pizza. He knocked its score down to a tepid 7.3.
Portnoy’s reviews can be meandering, often in entertaining ways, but they always include the snap judgment of a precise score. Chris Bianco, who owns the highly regarded Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix, said such snap reviews don’t consider the entirety of a restaurant.
“To take one ride around the block of something does not necessarily tell you the best score, or one bite of something,” Bianco said.
But Portnoy’s reviews are not just reviews. Sometimes it seems like they are barely about pizza at all, but rather showcases for his confrontational attitude, pugnacious spectacles of grievance that can have as much in common with reality TV as with restaurant reviewing.
Like many of Portnoy’s interactions, if they go badly, it’s still good for Portnoy, One Bite and Barstool.
“I’m never trying to intentionally pick fights, but I’m not crying when it’s over,” Portnoy said, adding, “It’s good for Barstool when things like that happen. I know instantly: We just got a viral video.”