Bean soup rules
Congress can’t live without it, and if you can’t either, try these suggestions
Conundrums and complaints aren’t new to the U.S. Congress. Imagine the scene on a sweltering summer day in 1907. “Thunderation!” cried Joseph G. Cannon, the speaker of the House, his outburst sparked by bean hunger and anger over what he perceived as an uncaring House restaurant kitchen. The chef neglected to make the traditional bean soup that day. Cannon, an Illinois Republican who was speaker from 1903-11, was steamed up about it. According to acclaimed cookbook writer Crescent Dragonwagon (“Bean by Bean,” Workman, $15.95), what followed was a plea to
Tuscan Bean and Farro Soup With Cabbage Yield:
6-7 servings
INGREDIENTS
1⁄2 pound (1 1⁄4 cups) dried pinto beans
1⁄2 cup farro
11 cups water, divided use
Salt
1tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 1 medium carrot, peeled, chopped 1small celery stalk with leaves, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage 3large garlic cloves, minced 1 pound green cabbage, cored, shredded
1 pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded, diced (about 2 cups) Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Sofrito:
1tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 3large cloves garlic, minced Generous 1⁄2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled or fresh minced 1 (14-ounce) can diced tomatoes with juice
PROCEDURE
1. Place beans in bowl, cover by 2 inches with cold water and soak overnight, or 6-8 hours. Drain.
2. Combine farro and 3 cups water in medium saucepan; bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer until tender but still a little chewy. The brand I buy at Trader Joe’s takes 10 minutes of simmering; consult the package directions for cooking times. Drain and season with salt;
set aside.
3. Meanwhile, heat 1tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil in large, heavy soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat; add onion and cook until it softens, about 3 minutes. Add carrot, celery and sage; cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender, about 8-10 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add cabbage; cook, stirring often, until cabbage is limp, about 10 minutes. Add beans, squash and 8 cups water (or enough water to cover ingredients by 2 inches). Bring to boil on high heat; reduce heat and simmer 1 hour. Add salt and pepper to taste. If beans are not tender, simmer gently until beans are tender, about 10 minutes. Ladle out 2 cups of beans and vegetables with a small amount of broth; puree in blender in small batches or food processor. (I use an immersion blender and puree a small amount in the pot.) Return pureed mixture to pot.
4. Meanwhile, prepare sofrito: While soup is simmering, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in medium nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and rosemary; cook 30 seconds and stir in tomatoes. Add salt to taste and cook, stirring often, until tomatoes have cooked down and sofrito is thick and delicious and beginning to stick to the pan, 10-15minutes.
5. Stir sofrito into the soup. Stir in the cooked farro. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Serve topped with grated Parmesan cheese. serve bean soup every day, “hot, cold, rain, snow or shine.”
The House passed a resolution (yes, a majority somehow agreed on the soup subject) that regardless of weather, when the House is in session, bean soup must be on the menu. Dragonwagon and I agree that the recipe for the U.S. House Navy Bean Soup could use some sprucing up. More flavor, more pizazz. I’ve included three bean soup recipes, variations that boost the flavor profiles. If dried beans seem burdensome, the cannellini soup recipe uses canned beans for a quicker approach.