The Register Citizen (Torrington, CT)

Open the door to delicious

The Chef ’s Door in Watertown serves up comfort food with fresh, savory twists

- By John Torsiello

WATERTOWN — It’s the calm before the storm at the Chef ’s Door restaurant just off Straits Turnpike in Watertown. The lunch crowd will soon be arriving, and owner/ chef Chris Bruno, manager Jessica Falzone, and bartender Diana Young were getting set for the crush. Cody Koester-Hoben is chef de cuisine.

Open since April, the Chef ’s Door is a fitting name for the establishm­ent, as a number of doors of various sizes, shapes and colors line one wall. Jim Morrison would have loved this place. “I just thought it would be cool to hang the doors on the wall,” said Bruno, who has been a chef and restaurate­ur in several other locations, including a run of 20 years in Brookfield at Chris’s American Restaurant.

The doors are indeed cool, as are myriad photos that grace other walls. The tables and chairs were custom made for the eatery, Falzone points out, and their metal and dark wood constructi­on add to the eclectic ambiance. The restaurant has seating for 55, including at the bar.

“I’d say we aren’t too formal and

not too casual,” said Bruno, when asked to describe the atmosphere inside his restaurant. “It’s a place where people can relax and have a drink and a great meal.”

“This is a wonderful spot for me,” added Bruno, a graduate of culinary school at Johnson and Wales in Rhode Island and a man who has had a lifelong love affair with cooking. “We draw from Watertown, and we are close enough to towns like Woodbury and Litchfield to draw from there as well. A lot of people don’t like to drive a long way for dinner after working all day, and this is perfect for them, especially the locals.”

Bruno has been cooking since he was around 7 years of age, although his first attempts were not what one would term culinary successes. “I cooked hot dogs and grilled cheese, and I think I burned them both,” he said with a smile. “But I got a job as a dishwasher when I got older, and the kitchen was such an adrenaline­filled place. I knew then that the kitchen was for me. I caught on quick to cooking and then decided to go to school and become a chef. I also had the opportunit­y to apprentice with several phenomenal chefs along the way. I developed a palate first and I have always paid attention to detail.”

That detail extends out of the kitchen and into the dining area. “I rely on Jessica to run the front of the house, and she does a tremendous job working with our staff and helping them develop a rapport with the customers. We also have a very clean restaurant that we are proud of. From the cuisine to the uniforms the staff wears, it’s a way to differenti­ate yourself.”

The menu at the Chef ’s Door is a mixed one, although Bruno likes to rely heavily on fish and chicken in his main dishes during the warm weather. He is particular about how he prepares each dish, taking care to allow the meats, fish and pasta to speak for themselves and not be overwhelme­d with spices. He and his assistant chefs (there is also a pastry chef that makes fresh delights to cap off a great meal) pride themselves on originalit­y. Bruno is not afraid to take risks. He also sources locally whenever he can and supports area craft breweries, wineries and distilleri­es.

“I like to push the envelope a bit. We have had rabbit where we used the whole animal for various dishes. I like changing the menu up, but there are always gotos that people enjoy and you have to keep them happy. But Jessica and the wait staff try and entice our customers, especially the regulars, to try something different once in a while.”

Falzone is in charge of social media, and posts often about the restaurant and its offerings on Facebook, Instagram and other places. Millennial­s are so plugged into social media that it is an effective method of creating buzz. “Jessica does a great job with that,” Bruno said. “I’m more of an introvert and I’m much better at the back end of the restaurant, preparing the food and running the kitchen staff.”

When asked what is one of his most popular dishes , Bruno quickly pointed out the grilled marinated pork chops served with homemade apple sauce and mashed potatoes.

Other current entrees include: steak tips with tomato and mushroom risotto; Bourbon Street chicken and shrimp served with trinity vegetables, andouille sausage, tomato creole sauce and rice; and pork osso bucco with an apple cider glaze and mashed potatoes.

There’s also an appetizer list that includes beer and ciderbrine­d wings; pork belly sliders; yucca fries, and tuna carpacccio, the latter served with sherry vinegar, horseradis­h aioli, and almonds.

The menu has a soup of the day; knob salad ( mixed lettuces, cucumbers, onions, tomato, crumbled gorgonzola cheese, almonds, bacon, grapes, hardboiled egg, and green goddess dressing), and a honeydew salad with mixed lettuce, feta, “pepitas,” cucumbers and sherry vinaigrett­e.

Among the Chef ’s Door’s sandwiches are a traditiona­l burger; grilled eggplant with goat cheese, peppadews, caramelize­d onions, chili mayo, arugula and garlic bread; and an Indonesian street cart chicken with a curry spice rub, sambal mayo, pickled vegetables, lettuce, and naan bread. And remember those fresh pastries. The bar serves up an assortment of drinks, including designer cocktails.

“It’s a big thing for us to always keep things fresh, whether it is the ingredient­s in our dishes to the drinks and to the way we greet and serve the people that dine with us,” said Bruno. “We have been received extremely well thus far and we want to keep it that way.”

The Chef ’s s Door is open Monday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. The restaurant is closed on Sunday.

Visit www.chefsdoorc­t.com.

 ?? John Torsiello / For Hearst Connecticu­t Media ?? Manager Jessica Falzone, left, and owner/chef Chris Bruno take a moment before the lunch crowd arrives at Chef’s Door in Watertown. At top of page, Whole Rabbit Two Ways is a seared rabbit loin and rabbit sausagestu­ffed leg. It is served with a fig and port wine reduction. The restaurant opened in April.
John Torsiello / For Hearst Connecticu­t Media Manager Jessica Falzone, left, and owner/chef Chris Bruno take a moment before the lunch crowd arrives at Chef’s Door in Watertown. At top of page, Whole Rabbit Two Ways is a seared rabbit loin and rabbit sausagestu­ffed leg. It is served with a fig and port wine reduction. The restaurant opened in April.
 ??  ?? Seared arctic char is served with a butternut squash and kale risotto.
Seared arctic char is served with a butternut squash and kale risotto.
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 ?? Contribute­d photo ?? Pork Chops served with potatoes and homemade apple sauce.
Contribute­d photo Pork Chops served with potatoes and homemade apple sauce.

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