Pork loin can be a game changer
Swear by chicken breasts? This pork cut could be a game changer
Pork chop fans, take note. It’s time to expand your repertoire and embrace the convenience, mild flavor and tender texture of pork tenderloins. These no-waste cuts of pork are extra lean, almost as lean as skinless chicken breasts.
Chef and cookbook author Bruce Aidells wrote about the luscious nature of low-fat pork tenderloins in his book “The Complete Meat Cookbook” (Houghton Mifflin, $35).
“Pork tenderloins — the leanest, most versatile, and tastiest cut of all (pork cuts) — have only 1 more gram of fat per serving with the same number of calories as the skinless chicken breast,” he wrote, referencing the changes the pork industry has made in recent years to reduce the amount of fat in hogs. “The bottom line is that pork can be an excellent source of protein without adding fat to your diet, and it beats the hell out of poached chicken breast for taste.”
Not to be confused with pork loin, tenderloins are elongated, somewhat slender beauties, the flesh a reddish-pink hue. They are generally sold in side-by-side packs of two, each one weighing about 1 pound. Pork tenderloin’s mild-mannered taste makes it extremely versatile. They cook quickly using high heat, either roasted in the oven or cut crosswise into medallions and panfried, grilled whole or cut into chunks for stir-fries.
Pork Tenderloins With Prosciutto and Apple Chutney
Yield: 6-8 servings
INGREDIENTS
2 pork tenderloins (2½-3 pounds total) 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
Kosher salt and black pepper Good olive oil
10-12 slices prosciutto (about two 3-ounce packages) Kitchen string
Apple chutney (recipe below)
PROCEDURE
1: Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
2: Place the tenderloins on a rimmed baking sheet and pat them dry. In a small bowl, combine the rosemary, thyme, 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Rub the tenderloins all over with olive oil then sprinkle with herb mixture. If there is a thinner “tail,” fold it underneath so the tenderloin is an even thickness. Wrap the tenderloins completely with a single layer of prosciutto. (I place the prosciutto sideways with the ends wrapping under the tenderloins.) Tie in several places with kitchen string to hold the prosciutto in place.
3: Roast for 20-25 minutes until the tenderloin reads 140 degrees for medium rare and 145 degrees for medium. Cover the tenderloins tightly with aluminum foil and allow to rest at room temperature for 10 minutes. Cut diagonally in thick slices and serve warm with the apple chutney.
Apple Chutney
Yield: About 5 cups
INGREDIENTS
1 cup chopped yellow onion 2 tablespoons minced or grated fresh ginger
1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice or tangerine juice
3⁄4 cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
1 teaspoon whole mustard seeds
1⁄4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 1⁄2 teaspoons kosher salt 6 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, cut into 1⁄2-inch dice 3⁄4 cup raisins
PROCEDURE
1: Combine the onion, ginger, orange juice, vinegar, brown sugar, mustard seeds, red pepper flakes and salt in a large saucepan. Add apples as you chop to keep them from turning brown. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally.
2: Reduce the heat and simmer for about 50 minutes, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated (there will probably be about 1⁄2-1 inch of liquid left at the bottom — but it will thicken up as it cools).
3: Stir in the raisins and serve warm or at room temperature. Source: “Ina Garten Make It Ahead” by Ina Garten (Clarkson Potter, $35)
Pork Tenderloin Medallions With Balsamic Vinegar Pan Sauce
Yield: 4-6 servings
INGREDIENTS
2 pork tenderloins, 11⁄2-2 pounds total, cut crosswise into 11⁄2-inch thick medallions
About 1⁄4 cup all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and black pepper
1⁄3 cup balsamic vinegar
1⁄3 cup chicken broth 1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons drained capers Garnish: Italian parsley Kitchen string
PROCEDURE
1: Place medallions flat on work surface. Press each medallion with fingertips until 3⁄4-1 inch thick (you can use a meat mallet if you prefer). Spread flour in shallow pan or rimmed plate.
2: Heat 2 tablespoons butter and oil in large skillet over medium-low heat. While pan is heating, sprinkle pork on both sides with salt and pepper, then dredge in flour.
3: A couple of minutes before sauteing, increase heat to medium-high. When butter stops foaming, add pork in single layer. Cook, turning once, until rich golden brown, about 4minutes per side. Place on platter.
4. Prepare pan sauce: Combine vinegar and broth in skillet used to cook pork (do not wash). On high heat, boil until reduced in volume by half. Off heat, stir in butter. When butter melts, stir in capers. Spoon over pork and garnish with chopped parsley.
Source: Adapted from “How To Cook Without a Book” by Pam Anderson (Clarkson Potter, $29.99)
Pork Tenderloin With Fig-Cherry Stuffing
Yield: 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1⁄4 cup finely chopped onions or shallots
Kosher salt
1⁄4 cup coarsely chopped (about 1⁄2 inch) dried figs 2 tablespoons dried tart cherries 1⁄4 cup ruby port
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary leaves, minced
1 bay leaf
1⁄2 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
Freshly ground black pepper 1 ounce prosciutto, minced (about 1⁄4 cup)
1 pork tenderloin (1-1 1⁄4 pounds), trimmed
1 tablespoon olive oil
Sauce:
1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1⁄4 cup finely chopped shallots 2 tablespoons ruby port
3⁄4 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1-2 tablespoons crème fraiche or heavy whipping cream
PROCEDURE
1: Position oven rack to center; preheat to 325 degrees. If you are stuffing and rolling the pork in advance, wait to heat the oven 30 minutes before roasting.
2. For stuffing: Heat butter in small skillet over medium heat. Add onions and pinch of salt; cook, stirring frequently, until onions soften, about 6 minutes. Add figs, cherries, port, rosemary and bay leaf. Lower heat to gently simmer until fruit is soft, about 5 minutes. Increase heat to vigorous simmer and simmer until most of the liquid evaporates, about 3 minutes. Add zest and several grinds of pepper. Set aside to cool. When cool, remove bay leaf and stir in prosciutto. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed.
3. Butterfly and stuff pork:
Cut tenderloin lengthwise in half, stopping about 1⁄2 inch before it is cut into 2 pieces. Open it like a book and cover with plastic wrap. Pound with mallet or bottom of sturdy saucepan until meat is about 1⁄4- to 1⁄3-inch thick. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Spread stuffing evenly over pork, leaving a 1 1⁄2-inch border on the long side farthest from you. Starting with the long side closest to you, roll into a snug tube shape. Secure with string in several places.
4: Heat a large, ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add oil. Add pork, seam side up. Brown, turning with tongs to brown all but the side with the seam, about a total of 8 minutes. Turn seam-side down and place in oven. Roast, turning after 10 minutes, until it reaches 145 degrees, 18-24 minutes. Transfer pork, seam side down, to cutting board, preferably one with a trough.
5. Prepare sauce: Off heat, add butter to skillet. Return to medium heat. Add shallots and cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add port, scraping the bottom of skillet to dissolve any drippings and cook until almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Add broth and any juices from the cutting board and simmer vigorously until reduced by a little more than half, about 4 minutes. Add crème fraiche or cream and simmer for a minute or so. Taste and season. .
6: Cut pork into 1⁄2-inch thick slices (if blade tears meat, use a serrated knife), snipping strings as you go. Stir any juices that are released into the sauce. Arrange 2-4 slices on each plate and spoon sauce over meat. Pass any remaining sauce at the table.