PHILADELPHIA TOMATO PIE

The headnote says, “Why This Recipe Works…Created as a frugal way for local Italian American bakeries to use up leftover bread dough, this South Philadelphia specialty boasts a tender, yet chewy crust topped with a bright, assertive tomato sauce—but no cheese. We achieved the signature chewy-soft crust by using less water by weight in proportion to the weight of the flour. This yielded fine holes and a pleasantly spongy chew. Delaying the addition of salt (a technique called autolyze) allows the flour to soak up liquid and become more thoroughly hydrated, which also promotes a chewier finished crust. Letting the dough rise twice—pressing it into the pan in between— gave it maximum yeasty flavor. For the invigorating, sweet-tart, herby sauce, we started with a savory base of onion and garlic and then added a hefty amount of dried oregano along with red pepper flakes for kick. One can of tomato sauce provided just the right tomato flavor and texture, and a tablespoon of sugar contributed the sauce’s signature sweetness. When kneading the dough on medium speed, the mixer can wobble and move on the counter. Place a damp dish towel under the mixer to keep it in place and watch it closely. Note that we use a nonstick metal baking pan for this recipe.

Makes one 13 by 9-inch pizza, serving 4

Dough

2½ cups (12½ ounces) allpurpose flour

¾ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast

1 cup water, room temperature

1½ tablespoons extravirgin olive oil

1½ teaspoons table salt

Sauce

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup finely chopped onion

2 garlic cloves, minced 2 teaspoons dried oregano ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

For the dough Spray 13 by 9-inch nonstick baking pan with vegetable oil spray. Using stand mixer fitted with dough hook, mix flour and yeast on medium speed until combined, about 10 seconds. With mixer running, slowly add room-temperature water and oil and mix until dough forms and no dry flour remains, about 30 seconds, scraping down bowl as needed. Turn off mixer, cover with plastic wrap, and let stand for 10 minutes.

Add salt to dough and knead on medium speed until dough is satiny, sticky, and clears sides of bowl but still sticks to bottom, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer dough to prepared pan, cover tightly with plastic, and let rise at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1½ hours.

For the sauce Meanwhile, heat oil in small saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic, oregano, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add tomato sauce and sugar and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until sauce is slightly thickened and measures about 1¼ cups, about 10 minutes. Set aside and let cool completely.

Using your well-oiled hands, press dough into corners of pan. (If dough resists stretching, let it rest for another 10 minutes before trying to stretch again.) Cover tightly with plastic and let dough rise again at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1½ hours. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Spread sauce evenly over dough leaving ½- to ¼-inch border along sides. Bake until edges are light golden brown and sauce reduces in spots, about 20 minutes. Let tomato pie cool in pan on wire rack for 5 minutes. Run knife around edge of pan to loosen pie. Using spatula, slide pie onto cutting board. Cut into 8 pieces and serve.