The shellfish difference
Mussels, shrimp or scallops shake up the dinner routine
In the mood for something new for dinner? Think about bypassing the butcher counter and opt for some shellfish instead. Shellfish cooks up quickly, and its versatility is impressive.
Although there are several choices, I’m sticking to three tasty varieties in the following recipes: scallops, shrimp and mussels.
My rule is to cook fresh shellfish on the day it is purchased, but when it comes to raw, shelled shrimp and scallops, I often buy them frozen, which allows for more use-time wiggle room.
BUYING AND PREPPING SHRIMP » I often buy frozen, head-off, peeled and deveined raw shrimp at the supermarket (it’s stocked in the frozen food case, not the seafood display). Sealed in a 2-pound bag, the shrimp are individually quick frozen, so I can take out as many as I need and leave the rest in the freezer. Most shrimp sold in the marketplace are deep frozen and delivered frozen. Even those in the display of “fresh” shrimp you see at the counter were defrosted. Looking at them behind the glass, it is difficult to know how long they’ve been there defrosted. Avoid shrimp that are limp, slimy or falling apart; they should smell fresh, not like ammonia.
A shrimp’s size is measured by the number it takes to make up a pound. The smaller the number, the bigger the shrimp. Figure 51 or greater per pound are small. Medium shrimp are 36-50 per pound. Large are 26-40, and jumbo are 16-25. Colossal, bless their hearts, are fewer than 15 per pound. Labels such as “medium” or “jumbo” aren’t regulated and thus can vary greatly from seller to seller.
To quicken the thawing process of frozen shrimp, I put them in a colander in the sink and run lukewarm water on them.
BUYING AND PREPPING SCALLOPS
» I usually buy the larger variety of scallops, sea scallops, because I like to sear the exterior to a beautiful brown. There are about 8-10 sea scallops per pound, while the much smaller bay scallops can yield as much as three times that amount.
Wet or dry? Most cooks agree that dry scallops taste and brown better. Wet scallops are treated with a solution of water and sodium tripolyphosphate to increase shelf life and retain moisture.
Often scallops are sold with the abductor muscle intact; it’s the muscle that opens and closes the shell. It’s found on the side of a scallop and can be easily pulled off.
BUYING AND PREPPING LIVE MUSSELS
» They should have wet, shiny shells and be kept on ice at the market. They should smell like the ocean, briny and fresh. They should not smell overly fishy. The shells should be tightly closed. If the occasional mussel has an open shell, gently tap it on the counter, wait a minute and see if it closes. Discard any mussels that don’t close, or those with chipped or cracked shells.
Most of the mussels in the marketplace have the beards removed, those thread-like clusters on the side of the shell. Just before cooking, if the beards are still in place, grab and pull them off. Scrub the mussels under cold running water. Nowadays, most mussels are farmed or grown on ropes, which is good because they are minimally gritty.
There are two main mussel varieties sold in the U.S., the Atlantic blue mussel and the Pacific green-lipped (also called New Zealand) mussel. They are generally interchangeable in recipes.
Easy Grilled Shrimp
These tasty shrimp can serve as a quick-to-prepare appetizer, or teamed with rice or orzo, they make a fast dinner entrée. To mix it up, I divide the glaze-sauce into two bowls (it is utilized first as a glaze and next as a spoon-over sauce). One I leave as is; the other I spike with Frank’s RedHot Sauce. Guests and family can choose the tart shrimp on the yellow plate or the spicy ones on the red plate.
4 servings
Yield: INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons honey
2large garlic cloves, minced
1⁄4 cup fresh lemon juice 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 to 1 1⁄2 pounds raw shrimp (26-40), peeled, deveined Vegetable oil for brushing on grate Salt and pepper to taste
DIRECTIONS
1: Heat grill. In a small bowl, combine honey, garlic, juice and mustard. Stir to combine, set aside. 2: Thread shrimp on bamboo skewers. Clean grate. Brush grate with oil (I use a folded-up paper towel 2 inches square, dipped in oil and secured with tongs). Brush one side of shrimp with glaze. Place unglazed side on grill; cook 1-2minutes. Turn and brush shrimp with glaze and cook 1-2minutes or until shrimp are opaque. Transfer to serving plate. Slather on a little more glaze and season with salt and pepper.
Sauteed Scallops With Cauliflower
Many years ago, chef Jean-Pierre Dubray shared the recipe for his delicious scallops. Creamy, pureed cauliflower formed a bed under the perfectly browned scallops; a few florets adorned the plate, along with a puddle of reduced chicken stock. He said a squeeze of basil oil is a delectable accompaniment. He makes the optional flavored oil by infusing grapeseed oil with fresh basil for 24 hours. He purees it and strains it through cheesecloth. The herbaceous green droplets can be added as a final garnish.
Yield: 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 head white cauliflower
Salt for cooking water
1⁄2 cup heavy whipping cream Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste 1tablespoon butter
8large “dry” sea scallops
Salt and ground cayenne pepper to taste
2 tablespoons canola oil
1⁄2 cup reduced chicken jus, warmed in saucepan; see cook’s notes
Garnish: sprigs of fresh chervil, popcorn sprouts, Italian parsley or small basil leaves
Cook’s notes: Dubray used housemade chicken jus but said store-bought chicken broth or chicken stock can be substituted, but it will need to be boiled to reduce it by about two-thirds. Dubray also used day boat scallops (dry, large sea scallops), because they aren’t processed with chemicals.
DIRECTIONS
1: Core cauliflower and cut into medium-small florets. Bring a pot of salted water to boil. Blanch florets until just barely tender; drain well. Set about 1⁄4 of florets aside, selecting the best-looking ones. In a food processor, puree the remaining florets with heavy cream, salt and white pepper. Return cauliflower mixture to pot and bring to simmer on medium-high heat; reduce heat to low.
2: Melt butter in small skillet on medium-high heat. Add reserved florets and cook until golden brown, gently turning as needed. Set aside.
3: Pat scallops dry. Be sure to remove abductor muscle from the side of each scallop (if present). Season dry scallops with salt and a little cayenne pepper. Heat canola oil in large nonstick skillet on medium-high heat. Add scallops in single layer and cook until golden brown on exterior and just barely cooked through, about 2-3 minutes on each side. Be careful not to overcook.
5: On serving plates, place cauliflower puree in the center. Place scallops and browned florets on top. Spoon warm chicken jus around edge of cauliflower puree and garnish with chervil sprigs.