Hawaii
“There are some gatherings where we may honor our deities,” she said. “Other occasions may call for a Christian prayer in Hawaiian or English, or both. You do what feels right for that space.”
Nobrega-Olivera believes Western science and Indigenous knowledge can combine to combat the effects of climate change and save the salt patch. The steps include building up the wells' edges so when sea levels rise, the water won't inundate the area. Another important step: preventing sand dune erosion from vehicle traffic to the beach, which causes the waves to crest and flood the patch.
“Some ask us why we can't move this practice to a different location,” she said. “That's impossible because our cultural practice is particular to this land. There are elements here that make this place special for making this type of salt. You cannot find that anywhere else.”
Those working on the salt patches enter with reverence. Nobrega-Olivera said menstruating women typically do not come and red clothes are avoided.
Kanani Santos said he removes his shoes before entering because he likes to “be connected to the ground.” He enjoys walking there at sunset, when the brick-red patch of land appears bathed in gold and the salt crystals sparkle like magic dust.
“I say a little prayer, ask for blessings to have a good harvest, to have a quiet soul and to embrace the moment,” he said.
Kurt Kuali'i, a chef whose family has made salt for 10 generations, choked up when speaking about this as his “kuleana,” which means responsibility.
“I get moments of silence here like church,” he said. “I believe in akua (god), a higher power. This is where I come to connect with that higher power, teach the children and be with family. There's good energy here.”
Even when rain disrupts an entire day's work, Kuali'i says he knows it's “God telling us it's not time yet, to slow down.” The best part of salt making is giving it all away, he said.
“Sharing is Hawaiian. This is something you make with your hands. I may not be the best at everything, but I can make Hawaiian salt.”
Kane Turalde has been coming to the salt patch since he was 7. He is 68 now, a Native Hawaiian educator and canoe-racing coach. He has protested in the past to block luxury homes and other development near the salt patch, which he says would have created more traffic and pollution.
“I always come here in the spirit of akua,” he said. “Before I leave home, I call my ancestors here so when I arrive, they are here.”