The Riverside Press-Enterprise

Keeping your citrus trees healthy and more

- — Joshua Siskin

1 Keep citrus happy:

David Herrig sends the following prescripti­on for successful growth of a dwarf Satsuma mandarin tree: “We purchased ours from Home Depot back in 2002when we lived in West Covina. It lived in a pot on our patio through 2014when we moved to Pomona. The only issue we had in the pot was insufficie­nt drainage. I drilled some holes in the bottom and set the pot up on blocks rather than directly on the cement. We fertilized it 4 times a year starting in January according to a schedule we got from the San Gabriel Valley Tribune. We use the citrus/ avocado food from Home Depot. In January 2015, we planted it in the backyard here in Pomona where it has thrived ever since. We continue to fertilize on the same schedule and it gets water every other day when it is not raining. The soil here is very sandy so it does not hold water. Starting in mid-to-late November every year and continuing through January we harvest and eat at least 5or 6dozen Satsumas of various sizes.”the citrus fertilizat­ion schedule to which Herrig refers was the recommenda­tion of a legendary horticultu­rist, the late Jack Christense­n, who penned gardening columns for Southern California News Group publicatio­ns for many years. “Mature citrus trees need a yearly total of 1.6pounds of actual nitrogen fertilizer,” Christense­n wrote, “divided into four equal portions applied in late January, early March, late April and early June — about six weeks apart — and distribute­d around the drip line. Since 1pound of any dry fertilizer equals about 2cups, that is about 4cups of ammonium sulfate, 2overflowi­ng cups of ammonium nitrate, or 1.5cups of urea, each time you apply it. Be sure to water it in well.” The fertilizer­s listed by Christense­n may not be available and so you can use a citrus/avocado formula, as suggested by Herrig, instead.

2 Fruitful flowering:

In Los Angeles, spring comes in February, and proof of this can be seen in flowering peaches, pears, plums, apricots and cherries, with their blinding clouds of blooms. The “flowering” moniker indicates that these fruit trees are grown entirely for their flowers, since fruit does not form or is not edible. An exception would be certain flowering plums whose fruit can be eaten, although it is tart. Descanso Gardens is worth a visit if only to see its bellflower cherry tree (Prunus campanulat­a) covered in dark pink, bell-shaped blooms. Along the periphery of Lake Balboa in the San Fernando Valley, you can see dozens of luminous Pink Cloud flowering cherries (Prunus serrulata). And Huntington Gardens has long been famous for a gnarled but resplenden­t Japanese flowering apricot (Persica mume) that blooms about this time. Also included in this group are evergreen pear (Pyrus kawakamii), a massive globe of blinding white flowers; flowering plum (Prunus cerasifera cultivars), with usually pink but sometimes white flowers (and also known as purple leaf plum due to bronze purple foliage); and Peppermint flowering peach (Prunus persica), whose blossoms are variegated pink and white.

3 Color coming up:

Monrovia Nursery has a list of perennials and annuals to plant for early spring color. They will start to bloom as soon as temperatur­es warm, which in this part of the world could be only a month from now. One of Monrovia’s recommenda­tions is hellebore. This rhizomatou­s species has flowers whose colors are often understate­d but appear in yellow, pink, salmon, red and purple to nearly black, as well as white. Foliage is often bluish-green. Hellebore is a clumping plant that is the perfect candidate for a semi-sunny to shady garden. Dianthus is a long-blooming biennial (that is, it takes at least two seasons of growth to bloom) or perennial, depending on the species. And then there’s the gerbera daisy. Gerberas are probably the happiest plants on earth, as their large daisies in vivid yellows, oranges, pinks and reds may well be described as boundless botanical smiles.

4 House plant care:

To keep your houseplant­s healthy, give them a quarter turn each week to keep them symmetrica­l, allowing sun to reach each of their four sides in equal measure. For more compact plants, pinching of new growth is required. If your plants become leggy due to lack of light, improve illuminati­on with an LED light. This is the proper moment to air layer plants that have grown too large for their location or their pots. With air layering, you remove an outer ring of stem tissue and cover it with moist peat moss that is enclosed in plastic wrap and tied off on both ends. Roots will eventually begin to grow, and when you see they have made a robust cluster, you can cut the branch above and below the rooted segment and pot it in its own container.

5 Get weeding:

This is the time to weed, especially where the soil is still moist from our heavy rains. Where soil is dry, it is advisable to water it the day before you embark on your weeding project. When soil is moist, it is much easier to pull out your weeds, along with their root systems, so resproutin­g cannot occur. If seeds are formed, it is not enough to pull the weed and drop it in place, even if it will eventually decompose and improve soil fertility. Those seeds will eventually germinate where they lie. On the other hand, by removing weeds before they flower, you can distribute them around your plants as mulch or put them in your compost pile. Actually, though, if your compost pile is hot enough,even weeds with seeds can be tossed in since the seeds will die from the heat before they can germinate.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States