The Riverside Press-Enterprise
MANDATORY GRILLING
Asian methods and flavors bring out the best of meat and vegetables
Oh, the allure of food grilled Asian-style, the primordial perfume of smoke melding with the scent of caramelized basting sauces and marinades. Sweet, sour, salty and spicy tastes form an irresistible, crisp jacket of flavor over grilled vegetables and meat. Fish and fowl, too.
Su-mei Yu, author of “Asian Grilling” (William Morrow), writes that it’s the balance of flavors used to marinate and/or baste that makes Asian-grilled dishes so appealing. She says the distinct flavors of Asian seasonings make it so delicious, adding that they are designed to match perfectly with the main ingredient.
She advises readers to find the primary taste that they like best (sweet, sour, salty or spicy hot) and build on that, contrasting it with other flavors.
In her book she explains that each Asian region has its own seasoning style. In Southeast Asia, garlic, lemon grass, salt, turmeric, white pepper, and ginger or galangal (a rhizome with ginger-peppery flavor) are generally signature ingredients. In China, sesame oil, soy sauce, cinnamon, five-spice powder and ginger often play a key role. Koreans, she says, prefer a sweeter blend, using sugar, sesame oil, soy sauce and green onions. The Japanese favor more simple, clean tastes, frequently using soy sauce, miso (fermented soybean paste), mirin (wine made from glutinous rice) and sugar.
Here are delicious examples of Asian grilling; some made with chicken, one with beef and one with Asian eggplant.
Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at Cathythomascooks.com.
CHICKEN SATAY WITH PEANUT SAUCE
This satay is Nonya-style, a fusion of Malaysian, Indian and Chinese cooking. In this recipe chicken is the star, but pork loin can be substituted. Accompany the satay with peanut sauce for dipping.
10 to 12 skewers
Yield: INGREDIENTS
For marinade:
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 serrano chiles, minced; see cook’s notes
1stalk lemon grass, tough outer layers and green parts removed, minced
1 teaspoon ground turmeric (for chicken); see cook’s notes 3 shallots, minced (about 1/3 cup)
1 tablespoon ground blanched almonds
1 teaspoon red miso; see cook’s notes
1/2 cup coconut milk; see cook’s notes
For satay:
1pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs 10to 12bamboo skewers, soaked in water 30minutes, then dried with paper towel
1/3 cup pineapple juice
Vegetable cooking spray
For serving: Peanut dipping sauce; recipe included Cook’s notes: Use caution when working with fresh chiles. Wash hands and work surface thoroughly upon completion; do NOT touch face or eyes.
DIRECTIONS
1. Put coriander seeds in small skillet and dry-roast over medium-high heat, sliding skillet back and forth over burner to prevent burning, until spice exudes a pleasant aroma, about 1minute. Remove from heat and transfer to bowl to cool. Grind in spice grinder (or pound seeds in a zipper-style plastic bag with a mallet or bottom of a saucepan) and set aside.
2. In blender, add all marinade ingredients; whirl until pureed. If prepared ahead, place in glass jar; seal well and refrigerate overnight. When ready to use, place in bowl.
3. Slice chicken diagonally across grain into thin strips. Add chicken to marinade; mix well, coating thoroughly, and let sit 30 minutes.
4. Start grill, mounding charcoal on 1side, leaving other half empty. While grill is heating, thread 3-4pieces of chicken
onto each skewer into a tight bundle, covering 5 inches of skewer. Add pineapple juice to marinade and mix well. Set aside.
5. Spray skewers generously with vegetable oil. Place skewers with meat portion on grill over medium-high heat, arranging them close to one another. The uncovered portion of the skewer should not be over coals. Grill, brushing lightly and frequently with marinade only during the first 5minutes of grilling, turning frequently to prevent burning. Grill until outside is crisp brown and inside white and tender, a total of 10to 12minutes. Transfer to platter. Serve with peanut dipping sauce.
Source: Adapted from “Asian Grilling,” by Su-mei Yu (William Morrow, $24.95)
HALEY’S PEANUT DIPPING SAUCE Yield: About 2/3 cup INGREDIENTS
1 teaspoon cornstarch
2 tablespoons water, plus 1/3 cup water, divided use 1/2 teaspoon canola oil
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup hoisin sauce; see cook’s notes
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2teaspoons creamy peanut butter Optional: Asian chile sauce, to taste
DIRECTIONS
1. In small bowl, combine cornstarch and 2tablespoons water; set aside.
2. In medium skillet, heat oil on medium-high heat. Add garlic and cook 30 seconds. Add hoisin, vinegar, 1/3 cup water and peanut butter; mix well and bring to boil. To add some optional spicy heat, stir in Asian chile sauce to taste. Source: Haley Nguyen, chef and instructor, Long Beach City College