Central Park Fusion

A plethora of tastes

10:40 a.m. … Fourth of July.

There are restaurants, and then there are real restaurants. In my travels, I've had the opportunity to dine at both. As I've noted, quality ingredients and creativity are the two defining factors that separate a very good restaurant from a truly outstanding one. Owner and head chef Matt Fuller of Central Park Fusion knows this and he works very hard to deliver some of the best food in the state of Arkansas. Matt's energy level has accelerated over the past few years, making Central Park Fusion a world-class restaurant.

Fusion cuisine combines elements of different culinary traditions. Cuisines of this type are not categorized according to any one particular cuisine style. At Central Park Fusion, you'll find the style or ingredients from numerous ethnicities. I've found new American, Spanish, Mediterranean, French, Italian and even Mexican fused items at CPF. This is where Matt's enthusiasm about creativity makes a difference. The quality of ingredients is the other difference-maker. An example of Matt's commitment to quality is that he orders seafood from an East Coast distributor that also supplies restaurants such as French Laundry (Calif.), Le Bernadine (New York City) and Blue Hill at Stone Barns (New York). Freshness and quality exudes from most every aspect of every meal at CPF. Central Park Fusion has a main menu that always has a separate insert with specials. Many of the freshest seafood items are listed here, and the insert seems to change weekly based on new airfreight arrivals. When Matt has new ideas, or finds new sources for unique ingredients, the specials will change.

I always start with an appetizer. The Champagne Brie and Truffle Soup may be the best soup in the nation. Everyone who's had this soup loves it. If you've never ordered this, it's a must. If I'm not ordering the scallops for my entree, I also like the caramelized scallops as a starter. These pan-roasted tender and large scallops are served over a creamy truffle fresh corn polenta. These scallops are scrumptious, and the corn polenta is aMAIZEing. Ah shucks, sorry about these corny jokes, they can be earie and may stalk your mind. … Another standby for me is their Fried Brie.

This phyllo-wrapped Brie is served with pesto, roasted sun-dried tomatoes and candied pecans. A current special-list favorite is the Mocha Pork Belly. A coffee-rubbed kurobuta pork belly is dusted with dark cocoa, honey/habanero glaze and served with bacon vinaigrette slaw and outstanding red-wine tart cherries. This will melt in your mouth, more lean that you might expect, and is packed with flavor. Yum!

Another beginning worth noting are the tuna tacos. Matt, intermittently, will have big eye sushi grade tuna overnighted to Hot Springs. When available, these tacos are spectacular. The big eye tuna entree, one of the best seafood dishes in the state, is served with jasmine rice, wasabi, soy and freshly grilled veggies. The steamed clams are stunning. These fresh Maine clams arrive here within a couple of days after harvest. They are steamed in a white wine, shellfish stock with shallots, tomatoes, roasted garlic, herbs and a touch of cream. He serves the clams with a sourdough bread for dipping in the tasty sauce. The Oyster Rockefeller, baked oysters with pancetta bacon, spinach, garlic, shallots and Parmesan are a real pearl. I recently tried a new appetizer from the special insert; scallops, foie gras and truffles over that heavenly corn polenta. Wow! Speaking of corn, shouldn't it go in a cob salad?

I've already mentioned the scallops and the big eye tuna entrees, and you will love these. If you are interested in beef, the Boursin Filet is splendid. This high-end filet is grilled to order with boursin cheese, and served over the polenta. I recently had Squid (calamari) topping squid ink pasta and loved it. The Burgers at Central Park Fusion are special. Matt uses his tenderloin trimmings and grinds the meat himself. He also offers the spectacular Foie-Truffle Burger. This super high-end burger is cooked to order and topped with seared Hudson Valley grade-A foie gras. Topping that is shaved black summer truffles and a red wine veal demi. This may be the best, albeit expensive, burger that I've ever tasted. Any fresh fish from the menu is perfect. If you're really hungry, try the Double Cut Pork Chop. This chop includes the tenderloin and rib. It's partly smoked, then vacuum sealed and cooked sous-vide style in a water bath at an exact temperature. It's then seared and served with homemade mashed potatoes and vegetables. Very tender and succulent. The dessert menu has been upgraded and includes many awesome endings.

The atmosphere at CPF has a certain casual chicness that makes dining here a pleasure. There is a large bar that allows for singles to dine, and the bar carries all of your favorite libations. The wine list is one of the most extensive in Hot Springs, with lots of wines by the glass. Matt cares about the community and, through his philanthropic nature, has worked with several specific charities to enhance Hot Springs. His staff is very knowledgeable and helpful, giving you extraordinary service. I hope the corn puns didn't go in one ear and out the other, they are in a field of their own. …

Central Park Fusion is also in a field of its own as one of the best restaurants in the state. We have about five super fine-dining restaurants in the area, and Central Park Fusion is certainly one of the best. I'll see you there!

12:30 p.m. … Ribs on.

Above, the Double Cut Chop, available at Central Park Fusion, is a customer favorite.