The Signal

Condo damage responsibi­lity, tips on sistering a new rafter

- Robert LAMOUREUX

Question No. 1

I live in a multi-story condo and in the middle of the night there was a backup in my kitchen. The people upstairs were using their water and I came home to a flooded kitchen. I called my HOA and they were telling me it was my problem and not theirs. This doesn’t make any sense! If I wasn’t even home, how could the backup be something that is my responsibi­lity? I don’t understand how this plumbing stuff works but there is one unit below me and five units above. How do they know if it was me that was the problem, especially when I wasn’t even home? I don’t want to be responsibl­e for damage to anyone else’s unit, let alone my own, so I’m hoping you can shed some light on how all of this stuff works. My kitchen and living room were both flooded and that is enough for me to deal with. Beth B.

Answer No. 1

Beth, without being on your property and knowing the configurat­ion of the plumbing to your building, I can only surmise. It does sound like a blocked vertical line to me, though, not something that was created due to your unit, since you weren’t home. The vertical line runs from top to bottom in the building and each fixture at each level drains into verticals. That ultimately ends up into the horizontal lines either in a garage or below ground. Since you say that the floor below you was unaffected, it tells me that the vertical is likely backed up between your floor and the one below you and since water will take the path of least resistance, it came up through your kitchen sink and made its way into your unit. I would have strong words with my HOA explaining this as well as the fact that you weren’t even home to cause any backups. Also, once you let the upstairs neighbors know to shut down and then it stopped, is indicative that the vertical is the source of the issue. They need to get this vertical line cleared and know that if I was brought in as an expert witness on this, I would prevail by explaining the way that this all works. There’s really no doubt in my mind what the issue is here. Good luck, document all communicat­ions, and keep it to email so you have a paper trail. Keep the same email string running so that the timeline all stays clear. If you call, follow the call up with an email referencin­g the call.

Question No. 2

I live in Canyon Country and unfortunat­ely I’m in a position where I have to sell my home, and funds are very tight. They did a home inspection and one of the boards that holds the roof up is cracked almost all the way across, like it’s going to break apart. The handyman is telling me that this board needs to come out and be replaced completely with a new one and is saying it will cost over $2,000. I can only sell the house when repairs are complete so this has to be done, but can you tell me if there is another way to do this that would cost less and still be the proper repair that will be accepted? I just can’t see spending that much money right now and am hoping that you have another way. Please help!

Grace V.

Answer No. 2

Grace, yes there is another way and it will be much less expensive for you, and will pass inspection. I would not use this handyman, as he seems to not be knowledgea­ble enough, especially to help you in your current situation. Hire a licensed contractor (make sure they’re insured), and let him know that what you need is to sister a new rafter to this one. He’ll know exactly what you’re saying and I believe this to be a 2-inch by 6-inch, you can let them know. They may even be able to provide a cost ahead, with the photos that you have. I see a knot on this piece, which is probably why the load caused it to crack, but the good news is that I don’t see that it has sunk or buckled, it has just simply cracked. The contractor will put a new rafter right next to this one and extend it on either side by at least 4 to 5 feet past the crack, and will use 16D nails to attach it approximat­ely every 12 inches in a zig-zag pattern, not straight, all the way across. That will transfer the load from the roof to this new rafter and will solve this issue. You are looking at a cost that is much less than what your handyman is telling you, so hopefully this will be doable for you. Best of luck to you.

Robert Lamoureux has 38 years of experience as a general contractor, with separate licenses in electrical and plumbing contractin­g. He owns IMS Constructi­on Inc. in Valencia. His opinions are his own, not necessaril­y those of The Signal. Opinions expressed in this column are not meant to replace the recommenda­tions of a qualified contractor after that contractor has made a thorough visual inspection. Email questions to Robert at robert@imsconstru­ction.com.

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