WAKE UP, CANTALOUPE
Spicy, sweet and salty additions bring the mild melons to life
In my childhood summers, I must have watched my mother joyously consume cantaloupe twice a week. She would cut the smallish orb in half through the equator and stow half in the fridge for later feasting, then grab a spoon and scoop out the seeds along with the membranes. A dusting of salt crowned the surface. In her eyes it was tender-juicy bliss; only a naked rind was left for the chickens.
Not everyone is a cantaloupe fan. Understood. Alone, without any ingredient assistance, it can be a tad boring. To my way of thinking it needs the addition of something salty, or sweet, or spicy. Sour works, too.
Mom knew this with her casual sprinkling of salt. After a trip abroad, she learned to add a salty element by serving it with prosciutto.
I’m sorry that mom didn’t know about Tajin, that spicy, limey seasoning. I think she would have appreciated its kick as well.
Choose melons that feel heavy for their size and are free of bruises or cracks. Look for those in which the color between the webbing is mostly a light gold. They are fragrant when ripe, and the blossom end will generally give very slightly to pressure. If unripe, ripen at room temperature (uncut) up to about 4-5 days. Or use the quicker brown-bag method: Set the cantaloupe in a paper bag. Add an ethylene-producing fruit such as an apple or banana. Roll the top of the bag over once. Store at room temperature out of direct sunlight for 1-3 days and check every day. Once cut, refrigerate airtight for 2-3 days.
Here are three recipes that brighten up cantaloupe.
Fire and Ice Cantaloupe
Yield: 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
1⁄3 cup granulated sugar
1⁄4 cup water
1 1⁄2 teaspoons seeded and minced serrano chile
1⁄4 cup fresh lime juice
11⁄2 tablespoons minced fresh mint 2 tablespoons minced red bell pepper 2 large, ripe cantaloupes, washed
PROCEDURE
1: In a small saucepan, make a chile syrup by combining the sugar and water over mediumhigh heat and boiling until the sugar is dissolved, stirring occasionally. Pour into a small bowl and let cool. Stir in the chile, lime juice, mint and bell peppers.
2: Peel melons. Cut the melons in half from top to bottom and remove the seeds and membranes. Cut into wedges or other interesting shapes and arrange attractively on 8chilled plates. Drizzle about 1⁄2 cup of the chili syrup, or to taste, over all the melon. Reserve the remaining chili syrup for another use.
Source: “Home Food,” by Debbie Shore and Catherine Townsend (Clarkson Potter, $25)
Cantaloupe with ice cream, salted peanuts and peanut brittle Yield: 4 servings INGREDIENTS
3 cups cantaloupe cubes or balls, see cook’s notes
3 cups ice cream, flavor of choice, such as French vanilla, Oreo or chocolate chip
3⁄4 cup salted, roasted peanuts
1cup peanut brittle, such as See’s
Optional garnish: 4 fresh cherries
Cook’s notes: Before cutting, wash melon with cold water. Cut in half through the equator and scoop out seeds and membranes. Cut out spheres using a melon baller device or cut into cubes.
PROCEDURE
1: Place melon balls or cubes in 4bowls. Just before serving, using a small scoop, place scoops of ice cream around and between melon. If a small scoop isn’t available, make a large scoop of ice cream in the center and surround with melon balls or cubes.
2: Sprinkle each serving with peanuts. Scatter small pieces of peanut brittle on top and, if available, place one larger piece vertically in the center. Top with a fresh cherry if desired.
Cantaloupe, tomato salad with burrata
Yield: 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
11⁄2 pounds mixed tomatoes (large tomatoes cut into wedges, halved cherry tomatoes) 1 cantaloupe, washed, peeled and cut into bitesize chunks (about 1 1⁄2 cups)
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1⁄4 cup sliced (medium-heat) pepperoncini, drained, chopped
1⁄4 cup white wine vinegar
1small handful fresh basil leaves, torn if large 1⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
8 ounces burrata cheese
PROCEDURE
1: Place tomatoes and cantaloupe in large, wide bowl. Season with salt and pepper; gently toss (I use two silicon spatulas). Add pepperoncini and drizzle on vinegar; toss again. Taste and adjust salt, pepper, pepperoncini and vinegar to make a lovely sweet-tart-hot balance.
2: Add basil and drizzle on olive oil. Toss again. 3: Just before serving, pull burrata into 6-8 pieces and distribute on top of salad. Very gently toss. It will get a little messy and runny, but deliciously so.