‘Birdscaping,’ fertilizing and drought-tolerant plants
Attract birds, no salt needed: If you are looking for a way to relax, bird watching could be for you, and attracting birds to your garden is something to consider. “Birdscape” is a term that refers to a garden designed to attract avian creatures. This can be achieved by planting perennials such as abutilons, salvias and honeysuckles as well as vines and shrubs with tubular blooms (Bignonias, Brugmansias, Tecomas and Tecomarias), since they are all candidates for hummingbirds’ attention. Cotoneaster, pyracantha, and toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia), on the other hand, are ornamentals that yield small, spherical red fruit that serve as delectable snacks for birds of every kind. Of course, you may want to think twice about birdscaping if you are growing lots of tree fruit and berries, unless you have bird netting covering your crops. Other common ornamentals whose fruit brings birds into the garden include heavenly bamboo (Nandina species), Viburnum species, holly (Ilex species) and ornamental cherries such as Carolina laurel cherry (Prunus caroliniana) and our own native Catalina cherry (Prunus ilicifolia lyonii). And to maximize the chances of avian visits, consider adding a birdbath, a birdhouse and two bird feeders — one with sugar water for hummingbirds and one with seeds for others. The beauty of bark: Consider native plants for coping with drought. Many are finishing this year’s bloom period, so visit native plant nurseries now to see which flowers you wish to bring home to your garden. Even though manzanitas have finished blooming, their smooth, exfoliating bark is enough of an advertisement to persuade you to have them close by all year long. And speaking of natives with interesting bark, you will also want to consider water birch (Betula occidentalis), with smooth bronze to blackish bark, and western redbud (Cercis occidentalis), with smooth gray bark. Where the latter is concerned, avoid acquiring a plant that has been trained into a standard (single trunk) tree, since
If you like attractive bark, consider western redbud.
such specimens are prone to sunburn on their trunks. The natural form of a western redbud is more like that of a large shrub with multiple foliated branches extending from the base of the trunk, which protect the bark from scorching in summer heat. The Catalina ironwood tree (Lyonothamnus floribundus) has peeling bark in an attractive reddish brown. The fernleaf (asplenifolius) subspecies of Catalina ironwood has decorous sawtooth foliage as well. Last, but not least, the California sycamore (Platanus racemosa) has smooth, cream-colored bark that is forever in a pleasantly exfoliating mode.
Tender loving care:
If you wish to prune or shape azaleas or camellias, do that when they finish blooming. You will see more blooms next year than this year by cutting back last year’s growth, as more side branches and more flower buds will develop. Also make sure to remove all withered flowers, whether they are still on the plant or have fallen to the ground, as these can harbor fungus diseases. As for fertilization, camellias should receive their first dose now, another dose in six weeks and another dose six weeks after that for maximum bloom next year. Azaleas should be fertilized now and in later September. Any fertilizer recommended for acid-loving plants will do. Never cultivate around camellias or azaleas due to their shallow roots. Instead, keep a layer of mulch around them at all times.
Keep ferns happy:
Fertilize ferns once a month with mild products such as fish emulsion (yes, it stinks, but it does the job) or cottonseed meal. You can also use a more concentrated liquid fertilizer as long as it has percentages of phosphorus and potassium that match the percentage of nitrogen. Make sure the soil is well-soaked before fertilizer application, since ferns are more susceptible to fertilizer burn than most plants. Consider planting a staghorn fern or, more properly stated, attaching one to a tree trunk or mounting one on a board or fence. These ferns are epiphytic in their habitat, meaning they grow on trees. They will need protection from full sun and do best in filtered light or partial sun conditions.
You can soak them with a liquid fertilizer every two to three months. The last time I visited the Huntington Botanic Gardens in San Marino, there was a huge staghorn fern attached to an ancient live oak (Quercus agrifolia), a successful marriage between tropical and chaparral species.
Space invaders: Be on the lookout for volunteer plants that, before you know it, can gain a foothold and require significant effort to uproot. In my neighborhood, I have to regularly contend with seedlings from Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Shamel ash (Fraxinus uhdei), loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), fig (Ficus carica), mulberry (Morus alba), Brazilian pepper (Schinus terbinthifolius), Canary Island palm (Phoenix canariensis), glossy privet (Ligustrum lucidum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), pride of Madeira (Echium candicans) and Peruvian lily (Alstroemeria species). Many of these plants are pleasing when situated in the right spot but are problematic in my average-size garden. The exception is Peruvian lily. Although it grows rampantly this time of year and I have to aggressively pull it from around other plants, I do not begrudge its precociousness since it is not deeprooted and its foliage makes wonderful mulch. And I especially don’t mind the proliferation of the tall Third Harmonic variety since its silky flower petals are a distinctive orange that fades to salmon and then to yellow when cut. All Peruvian lilies make wonderful cut flowers, reliably lasting for two weeks in vase arrangements.
Selecting and planting a landscape tree (or trees) is probably one of the most difficult decisions a homeowner makes. Trees can be expensive, and many have undesirable characteristics that can appear once they’re established and can be a pain to remove. A wellchosen tree can add value to your home and provide beauty, shade and maybe even food for you or the local wildlife.
When shopping for landscape trees, the first consideration is its function. Do you desire shade on your patio? Do you need protection from strong wind? Are you trying to find a way to improve privacy? Do you want an interesting focal point in your landscape?
If you’re looking for shade, consider the tree’s potential location, especially if you have or are planning to install rooftop solar. I can’t tell you how many houses I’ve seen where all or most of the solar panels are shaded by large trees. Those homeowners obviously are not getting the full benefit of their solar system investment. A large shade tree can reduce your air conditioning bills in the summer, but not as much as a functioning solar system can. If you want the benefits of shade and an efficient solar system, consider the mature height of the tree before planting.
Deciduous trees for shade should be planted on the south- or west-facing side of a property. When their leaves are gone in the winter, the sun will shine through to provide warmth.
Evergreen trees are frequently used for windbreaks. Many species are fast-growing, and their dense canopies and relatively flexible branches make them good choices.
Sometimes it’s the lack of certain negative traits that dictates tree choice. Invasive roots can be a huge drawback, especially for smaller properties. Sewer and irrigation lines can become clogged or sidewalks broken from tree roots. Builders seem to be fond of planting these shallow-rooted (but fast-growing) trees in new housing tracts.
Palm trees have fibrous, noninvasive roots, but they have their own drawbacks. They need to be trimmed professionally once they get big, and rats are quite fond of them. A palm tree planted close to the house provides easy access to the eaves and possibly the attic. If you have a rat problem in the attic, consider removing any tree (especially palm) that allows them access to the roof.
Avoid planting beneath power lines. Every spring I see tree trimmers cutting back the California pepper trees that grow under the power lines along our local streets. A better choice would have been toyons, which are attractive natives that don’t get quite so tall. Many trees drop their leaves and other detritus, some all year round. Avoid planting these trees near pools, fountains and other water features, or where cleanup would be difficult.
We made the mistake of locating a beautiful, four-tier fountain under a mature lemon tree. It was such a nightmare to keep clean! We eventually replaced it with a birdbath, which is a lot less trouble to drain and clean.
For more information on how to select a tree for your property, go to selectree. calpoly.edu.