Taos biscochito contest is serious business, but lots of fun
Two tables of judges sat in Taos Herb Co., pencils and palates at ready. This was serious business. No less than a time honored tradition of New Mexico’s state cookie was at stake. Some had sat as judges since this competition began nine years ago; others were newbies.
“It’s a lot of fun to come do this,” said Pauline Tafoya, a veteran judge at the annual biscochito contest Dec. 13.
One by one they each took a cookie from the plate passed around. A trio of musicians provided background music. The judges discussed the shape and thickness of each biscochito. They bit into the cookies, testing the texture and flavor. They marked their contest sheets.
Then they took another cookie and went through the process again, and again, and again - until all 32 entries were duly tried and judged.
Let’s just settle this upfront: a vegetarian cookie will never win this contest. To be authentic and to taste right, “we prefer lard,” said judge Ruby Montoya, with a serious tone but a big smile. “We’re old school.”
Her comadre judges at the table laughed and nodded.
“It’s all about the lard,” said Elva Archuleta, who was handing out the cookies.
“The lard makes it crispy,” added Martha Mondragon, sitting her first contest as judge.
Biscochitos require just the right amount of flour, lard, sugar and anise to pass the taste test with these judges.
When the tasting was all said and done, Doris Vasquez of Taos, was selected winner.
“I was jumping up and down when I found out,” said Vasquez, who had entered her cookies only one other time years ago.
In the runner-up position, for the second consecutive year, was Diana Rios. Tomasita E. Garcia garnered third place.
The biscochito’s origins are based in Spain, where they are called mantecados, according to one story. They were one of the more beneficial consequences of the Conquistadores marching into North America. Another version of the story says the cookie debuted after the Battle of Puebla in Mexico where Emperor Maximilian was defeated.
However the original biscochito recipe reached Northern New Mexico and Taos, Vasquez’s family is grateful it did. Vasquez learned to bake the cookie from her mother, who likely learned it from her mother, and so on, one of those closely guarded recipes handed through generations. Vasquez admits to tweaking the recipe a bit over the years.
Her four children scattered across the country can’t wait to visit at Christmas, both to make tamales with their mom and to gorge on her biscochitos. “They eat as many as they want and then take a bunch home and freeze them,” she said. “My older son treasures them like nobody’s business. He eats one a month to make them last.”
She makes about five batches with each one containing about seven dozen biscochitos.
She has to hide the cookies from her husband before the holiday to ensure there are enough for their kids. “He loves them with coffee,” she said with a laugh,. “He would look like Santa Claus if I let him eat all the ones he wanted.”
Ho, ho, ho. It’s all about that biscochito.
By Staci Matlock editor@taosnews.com