Mapo Mac and Cheese

2 to 4 servings (makes 3 1/ cups)

2

The Chinese-american canon has been largely unchanged for a generation, but chef Lucas Sin’s mapo mac innovates on two fronts: an embrace of nostalgia for a childhood American classic and a foray into quick-and-easy whimsy in a cuisine that has sometimes been intimidating for its technique and cultural specificity. Here is a meet-you-whereyou-are dish whose mac and cheese roots let you start this recipe halfway to the finish line.

Chinese sausage, Sichuan peppercorns, doubanjiang (fermented chile and bean paste), soybean paste and tofu puffs can be found at Asian markets and online.

Total time: 35 mins

Leftovers can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. You may need to loosen with a little water when reheating or reheat in a nonstick skillet with a slick of oil over medium heat until crisped up in places and hot.

Adapted from chef Lucas Sin of Nice Day in New York.

Ingredients

4 dried shiitake mushrooms Boiling water

Fine sea salt or table salt

1 cup (about 41/2 ounces) uncooked elbow macaroni

1/4 cup vegetable oil or another neutral oil

1/2 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns

1 scallion, white and green parts divided and chopped separately

11/2 tablespoons minced or finely grated fresh ginger

11/2 tablespoons minced or finely grated garlic

1/2 Chinese sausage (1 ounce), thinly sliced

1 tablespoon doubanjiang (Sichuan fermented bean paste)

11/2 teaspoons soybean paste

2 cups unsalted chicken broth or water

4 slices American cheese

13/4 ounces tofu puffs, diced (about 1 cup)

1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 tablespoon cold water

1 to 2 tablespoons chile oil

Steps

Place the shiitakes in a small bowl and cover with boiling water. Let stand for about 10 minutes, then drain and slice the mushrooms.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the macaroni according to package instructions or until al dente, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Drain, toss in the 1 tablespoon of the oil and let cool.

In a wok or skillet over mediumhigh heat, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil until shimmering. Add the peppercorns, scallion whites, ginger, garlic, sausage and mushrooms and stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the doubanjiang and soy bean paste, stir to combine and fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chicken broth or water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and let simmer for at least 5 minutes.

Add the macaroni to the pot. The liquid should barely cover the macaroni. Increase the heat to bring the mixture to a boil. Add the cheese and mix until it melts, then add the tofu puffs.

In a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch with cold water until they form a slurry. Add the slurry to the pot and stir until the sauce coats the macaroni like traditional macaroni and cheese.

Remove from the heat and divide the pasta between shallow bowls. Top with the scallion greens, drizzle with the chile oil to taste and serve.

Nutrition | Per serving (1 scant cup), based on 4: 449 calories, 17 g protein, 31 g carbohydrates, 32 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 32 mg cholesterol, 843 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugar