The Washington Post

Your cup of tea gets a perfect partner

- BY BECKY KRYSTAL

If I had one catchphras­e, it would have to be “You can freeze that.” (It’s become a running joke among my colleagues, and you need only take a peek in my refrigerat­or at home to see how staunchly I believe it.) If I could be allowed one more, I’d nominate “It goes great with tea,” as I’m inclined to say just about any baked treat pairs well with my favorite beverage.

As luck, or my own personal preference­s, would have it, this American-style Irish Soda Bread falls into both categories.

Because the recipe makes two generously sized loaves, it’s easy to stash an entire round or individual slices in the freezer for when you really need something with your cuppa. I particular­ly enjoy the soda bread with a full-bodied breakfast tea similar to what’s popular in Ireland. You do you, though.

What is not traditiona­lly Irish, though, is this soda bread recipe. Soda bread in Ireland, which you may see referred to as brown soda bread, tends to be heartier, more rustic fare, featuring wholemeal flour, a different product than our whole-wheat flour. The currant- and carawaystu­dded version is more common in the United States.

Nonetheles­s, this is an exemplary example of the Americaniz­ed treat. It comes from the second cookbook by Brian Noyes of Virginia’s Red Truck Bakery, a must-stop for me whenever I find myself in the pretty countrysid­e west of Washington. Noyes’s version makes for a tender, subtly sweet and slightly tangy bread.

If you decide to include the caraway seeds, the bread has a savory edge, making it a nice pairing with something like beef stew. If you don’t, it’s more like a very large scone, ideal for slathering with jam. Either way, be sure to have good salted butter on hand.

So named because it is leav

ened with baking soda instead of yeast, soda bread is a great option for beginning bread bakers or those without a lot of time to wait for dough to rise. This recipe also includes baking powder, which guarantees a tender crumb and lift, minus the time pressure you face when working with quicker-acting baking soda alone.

I particular­ly enjoy the soda bread with a fullbodied breakfast tea similar to what’s popular in Ireland.

Irish soda bread tends to get a lot of attention around St. Patrick’s Day, but this recipe proves it deserves year-round status, next to your tea and in your freezer.

 ?? SCOTT SUCHMAN FOR THE Washington POST FOOD Styling by Marie OSTROSKY FOR THE Washington POST ??
SCOTT SUCHMAN FOR THE Washington POST FOOD Styling by Marie OSTROSKY FOR THE Washington POST
 ?? SCOTT Suchman FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; food STYLING By MARIE OSTROSKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST ??
SCOTT Suchman FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; food STYLING By MARIE OSTROSKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

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