The Washington Post

My grandma’s cooking, with my own healthful spin

- Ellie Krieger NOURISH

This dish is more than comfort food to me. It’s like coming home, ringing of the flavors and aromas of my grandmothe­r’s kitchen, where she served up bowls of egg noodles with butter, braised cabbage, soups wafting with dill and a dollop of sour cream on just about anything. She branched out often with dishes such as chicken a la king and spaghetti and meatballs, but the food she made most often spoke to her Eastern European roots.

This meal-in-a-bowl of silky egg noodles mingling with tender, browned cabbage and onions, seasoned with dill, salt and pepper, and served with a big dollop of yogurt conjures her love-infused cooking, but it’s not exactly the way she would have made it. Rather, it’s a meal that reflects my way of cooking, too.

The noodles here are cooked until they are firm-tender, as I prefer them, rather than supersoft, as she would have done. I used mostly olive oil and just a knob of butter to finish the dish, introducin­g that essential buttery flavor in a more healthful way, and I rely on Greek yogurt, rather than sour cream, for a more protein-rich finish. Stirring the cool yogurt into the bowl of hot noodles so it melts into a creamy, tangy sauce ranks to me as one of the world’s most satisfying experience­s.

I know my grandma would have loved this dish exactly as it is, not only because it’s nourishing and fulfilling, but because it’s a kind of teamwork between us, a meal that connects us and reflects us both.

krieger is a registered dietitian nutritioni­st and cookbook author. learn more at elliekrieg­er.com.

 ?? TOM MCCORKLE FOR The WASHINGTON POST; food styling by Gina NISTICO FOR The WASHINGTON POST ??
TOM MCCORKLE FOR The WASHINGTON POST; food styling by Gina NISTICO FOR The WASHINGTON POST
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