Sushi-san

Chicago Kaze Chan is “virtually a one-man history of Chicago’s sushi scene,” said Phil Vettel in the Chicago Tribune. A roving star since he arrived in 1995, today he’s the featured attraction at Sushi-san, a minimalist, dimly lit joint with a blaring hip-hop soundtrack. Sushi-san offers four ways to dine. Highlights from the table-service menu include scallops roasted in furikake butter and the Tako Taco—octopus, garlic, and aioli with hot Fresno chiles folded in crispy nori shells. There’s also a first come, first served hand-roll bar and a late-night menu anchored by a togarishi fried-chicken dinner. But the prime-time place to be is at the four-seat, reservationonly chef’s counter for the $88 “OmaKaze” menu. It changes regularly, but a recent 18-piece feast began with a “ponzukissed” Kumamoto oyster and included yellowtail brushed with white soy, goldeneye snapper, Hokkaido wrapped uni, sweet tomago with eel, and a sea-salted square of chocolate on charred wood. “Overall, Sushi-san is a two-star restaurant, but the interaction with Chan makes the $88 option worth an extra star.” 63 W. Grand Ave., (312) 828-0575