Su­pe­rior Mo­tors

The Week (US) - - 27 -

The very ex­is­tence of Su­pe­rior Mo­tors is “a tes­ta­ment to the power of per­sis­tence,” said Jor­dana Roth­man in Food & Wine. The story started with a big idea: Chef Kevin Sousa wanted to open a high-end restau­rant in a bro­ken-down steel town, and he wanted the ven­ture to re­vi­tal­ize the com­mu­nity. The unveiling fi­nally arrived last sum­mer, af­ter a record-set­ting Kick­starter campaign but near-fa­tal cost over­runs, and so far, so good: “Su­pe­rior Mo­tors is the restau­rant Sousa promised Brad­dock it would be.” Not that it’s per­fect, said Hal Klein in Pitts­burgh mag­a­zine. Sousa’s cook­ing is “more cere­bral than soul­ful,” so he over­com­pli­cates dishes that could get by on taste. Still, “I was thrilled with the textures, bal­anced fla­vors, and bright plat­ing of fresh-as-the-sea hamachi dressed with av­o­cado, black gar­lic, and pineap­ple.” What’s more, Sousa is sur­rounded by pros, em­ploy­ing lo­cals, and of­fer­ing life­time half-off dis­counts to all Brad­dock res­i­dents. If you seek out his lively din­ing room, set in an old car deal­er­ship, be sure to get a seat with a view of the Edgar Thom­son Steel Works, still belch­ing steam and flames across the street. 1211 Brad­dock Ave., (412) 271-1022 First in The Bos­ton Globe. But if you’re in Bos­ton and look­ing for a great place to eat, you must try But­ton­wood. Con­sider those ribs: Equal parts Mediter­ranean and South­east Asian, they have bite and bark, with meat that’s “the per­fect com­pro­mise be­tween ten­der­ness and chew.” Folks who live in Bos­ton’s sub­urbs are “ba­si­cally city dwellers with bet­ter back­yards,” and chefowner Dave Punch knows bet­ter than to cater down. For a spe­cial-event din­ner, try the New Bed­ford sea scal­lops with ar­ti­chokes and al­mond and grape salsa verde, or the mon­ster pork chop with Mus­cat grape com­pote. Though house-made sausages have be­come com­mon, Punch’s fla­vor­ful chorizo “blew my mind,” and he can sat­isfy burger or veg­etable crav­ings too.

Craft Ur­ban’s Laskowski: Chicago moves west.

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