Recipe of the week

Like it or not, ranch has established itself as “the one true American dressing,” said Julia Moskin in The New York Times. Created around 1950 by a plumber who cooked for an Alaska work crew, it began spreading when he opened a California steakhouse later that decade and started selling a package-mix version. Steve Henson’s brainchild became the object of a wider mania when Cool Ranch Doritos were introduced in 1986, and today, ranch is far and away America’s favorite dressing, drizzled on everything from French fries to, controversially, pizza. Henson’s original recipe uses dried herbs, plus onion and garlic powder, so this version, adapted from the Brooklyn pizzeria Emily, can’t be called the ultimate. But the use of fresh garlic and herbs lend it “a much brighter taste.” Wherever you stand on pizza dipping, it’s “uncontroversially delicious.”

¼ cup chilled buttermilk, more as needed • 2 garlic cloves, peeled • 1 tsp coarsely ground black pepper • 3 tbsp chopped fresh chives • 2 tbsp chopped fresh mint or parsley • 1 cup store-bought mayonnaise, preferably Hellmann’s • salt, to taste

• In a food processor or blender, process the buttermilk, garlic, pepper, chives, and mint together until the herbs are minced and the mixture turns pale green. Add mayonnaise and process just until smooth. If desired,

thin with additional buttermilk to get the consistency you want. Taste and add salt if needed. • Serve immediately or refrigerate, covered, up to 3 days. Makes about 11⁄3 cups.