Misi

The Week (US) - - Leisure -

Every­body is call­ing Missy Rob­bins’ new ven­ture a pasta restau­rant, “but that’s not quite right,” said Pete Wells in The

New York Times. Misi also works won­ders with veg­eta­bles and gelato—its only dessert op­tion. The menu, in short, “has been dis­tilled down to es­sen­tials,” thereby im­prov­ing on her ac­claimed for­mula at Lilia, her pre­vi­ous flag­ship. Pasta re­mains her call­ing card. “Rob­bins likes hers to have body and heft,” and here, in a new build­ing with views of the Wil­liams­burg Bridge, she has a glass-walled, tem­per­a­ture-con­trolled workspace that she and her team use ex­clu­sively for daily noo­dle mak­ing. Whatever the shape, each pasta be­comes a per­fect ve­hi­cle for sim­ple, un­ma­nip­u­lated in­gre­di­ents: lightly cooked toma­toes, an­chovies, and gar­lic; mas­car­pone and spinach. “Like the pas­tas, Misi’s veg­eta­bles tend to bring to­gether only a few in­gre­di­ents, of­ten ap­plied in ways you don’t quite ex­pect.” The lightly pickled chanterelles are show­ered with rose­mary, and le­mony roasted egg­plant is dressed with Cal­abrian chiles. The wine list, mean­while, “prac­ti­cally begs you to take some­thing new for a whirl.” To re­view, then: pasta, veg­eta­bles, wine, gelato. “What more, re­ally, do you want?” 329 Kent Ave., (347) 566-3262 din­ner in Rome, “and ap­par­ently in

Detroit too,” said Mark Kurlyand­chik in the Detroit Free Press. At least that’s true at SheWolf, “a nightly exaltation of Ital­ian cul­ture with a rau­cous New Amer­i­can streak.” Open since June and “eas­ily Michi­gan’s most na­tion­ally rel­e­vant Ital­ian restau­rant,” the so-called pas­ti­fi­cio oc­cu­pies a mod­ernist jewel-box space in Cass Cor­ri­dor and runs on chef An­thony Lom­bardo’s play­ful, de­lib­er­ately Ital­ianAmer­i­can take on Ro­man fare. Housemilled flour el­e­vates the breads and pas­tas, and “by and large the pas­tas are a tex­tu­ral de­light,” out­shone only here and there by the menu’s seafood of­fer­ings. The ac­qua pazza, a wild red snap­per filet in a spicy broth, was “one of the best things I’ve eaten all year,” and most meals—de­spite

Brooklyn’s Misi and its Wil­liams­burg Bridge back­drop

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