Ver­bena BYOB

The Week (US) - - Leisure -

Philadel­phia

Ev­ery­one loves see­ing a wun­derkind chef rocket to the top, said Craig La­Ban in

The Philadel­phia In­quirer. Some tal­ents, though, bounce around for years, soak­ing up wis­dom, be­fore step­ping up to a fea­tured role. So it has gone for Scott Morozin, a for­merly nearly anony­mous sous chef now over­see­ing a great lit­tle 36-seat BYOB in Ken­nett Square. What­ever the rea­son he’s pre­vi­ously been a back­ground player, “the man can cook.” Or­der the chicken and what ar­rives is an up­right cylin­der of juicy breast meat wrapped in a sheet of bronzed skin, stuffed with mush­rooms, and perched atop slow-cooked leeks with truf­fled cheese. And the rest of the lo­cally sourced bird is put to good use, too, with the leg meat cured in a spicy brine and then ground for a “beguil­ing” Bolog­nese sauce. Morozin sometimes over­does a dish, as sous chefs sometimes do, but “his suc­cesses eas­ily out­weigh the mis­steps.” His servers should learn not to sell his achieve­ments as hard as they do; “the qual­ity is ev­i­dent on the plate.” 120 E. State St.,

(484) 732-7932

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