Revisiting Portland: Less buzz, same great taste
“You can’t blame Portland chefs for looking back,” said Michael Russell in the Portland Oregonian.
Fifteen years ago, they were setting trends that changed how the whole country ate, and the nation’s food media watched their every move.
“But now that every city in America has a scratcheverything restaurant with pickles on the shelves and a high-end tasting menu in the back,” Portland seems to be doing less innovating than refining what it’s already done well. Below, three examples.
Ned Ludd “With its rustic-glam décor, wood-fired menu, and ‘American Craft Kitchen’ tagline,” this decade-old joint might be dismissed as the epitome of Portlandia- esque preciousness. “The only problem? The food is as strong as it’s been in recent memory, from the vibrant pickles at the start to the smoke-kissed chocolate-chip cookie skillet at dessert.” 3925 N.E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., (503) 288-6900
Jacqueline Three years after taking over a space formerly occupied by St. Jack, this bright, homey Clinton spot has become Portland’s most interesting seafood restaurant and one of its best date-night destinations. Regulars are drawn in by happy hour’s $1 oysters, while later arrivals are rewarded with such thoughtful dishes as whole fried sea bass in a cashew salsa mocha. 2039 S.E. Clinton St., (503) 327-8637
Beast The fixed-price restaurant that used to be the first stop after the airport for outof-town high rollers recently added a Tuesday-night special for the rest of us: a $65 tip-included dinner often prepared by star chef Naomi Pomeroy herself, who makes, as it turns out, a “remarkably good” chicken cordon bleu. And the communal tables and use of thrift-store china haven’t changed. 5425 N.E. 30th Ave., (503) 841-6968