Recipe of the week

Though it’s often the season’s also-ran vegetable, “summer squash deserves better,” said Ben Mims in the Los Angeles Times. This wonderful late-summer soup, inspired by corn chowder, “brings out the surprising sweetness in the gourd,” while bacon, garlic, onion, and a splash of vinegar add savory heft.

Summer squash chowder

8 strips bacon, roughly chopped • 4 tbsp unsalted butter • 1 tbsp finely chopped thyme • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 2 celery ribs, finely chopped • 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped • 1 bay leaf • 8 yellow summer squash (4½ lbs), quartered lengthwise and cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces • 6 cups whole milk • 3 tbsp cider vinegar • kosher salt and black pepper • 2 pattypan squash (optional) • ¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

• Heat bacon in a large saucepan over medium heat. Cook until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve, leaving bacon fat in pan. Melt butter in fat. Add aromatics. Cook, stirring occasionally, about 6 minutes. Add summer squash and partially cover pot. Cook until squash reduces by a third, about 15 minutes. Uncover, increase heat to mediumhigh, and cook, stirring as needed, until pot liquid is

mostly evaporated, about 10 minutes. • Add milk and bring chowder to a simmer. Reduce heat to gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Remove bay leaf and use an immersion blender to puree soup. Stir in vinegar and season with lots of salt and pepper. Thinly shave pattypan squash crosswise. Garnish each soup serving with slices of pattypan, reserved bacon, and parsley. Serves 6 to 8.