Critics’ choice: Yet another new life for the American diner
Golden Diner
New York City
“If you need proof that great diners are still among us,” said Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite in NYMag.com, you should visit Manhattan’s Chinatown. In a century-old storefront that sits in the shadow of the Manhattan Bridge, chef Sam Yoo only has to gesture at the genre, with a Formica counter and swiveling stools, to establish his intent. The rest is in the food, and in “that intangible spirit of egalitarian bonhomie you look for in a joint like this.” Yoo, a Queens-born alum of David Chang’s Momofuku Ko, initially just wanted a casual menu that mixed the influences of Little Italy, Chinatown, and the rest of the Lower East Side. Now that menu features an egg-and-cheese sandwich distinguished by its sesame-scallion milk bun and “supercrispy” hash-brown layer; it includes a tuna melt that has become “the last word on tuna melts.” Yoo also serves a stellar matzo ball soup, an inimitable mushroomReuben quesadilla, and a burger that’s easily one of the city’s best. And don’t let the quality of the food intimidate you; “even if it’s your first time there, you feel like a regular.” 123 Madison St., no phone
Vertical Diner
Portland, Ore.
When you step into this recently reimagined 1950s diner, said Jordan Michelman in Willamette Week, “it still feels like the Mad Men era, save for the lack of ashtrays— and, of course, the entirely meatless menu.” Believe it or not, you won’t miss the real bacon, because everything on the all-vegan menu is made in-house, and “the attention to detail and quality shows in the food.” The pancakes are perfect, for instance;
“if you didn’t know they were vegan in advance, you would never guess.” Other highlights include tacos filled with kimchi and jackfruit, and fried seitan nuggets in a “zippy, zingy, just-sweet-enough” wing sauce. The jukebox plays an eclectic mix of oldies over the drone of memorable banter from diners in neighboring booths. That’s key, because though the food at Vertical Diner is excellent, “it’s that tinge of strangeness that elevates it from a great vegan diner to a great diner than happens to be vegan.” 8124 SW Barbur Blvd., (503) 206-6150
Wonderkid
Atlanta
“If you’re looking for a diner experience in Atlanta like you’ve never had before, don’t wonder too long,” said Ligaya Figueras in The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. Come spring, everybody will be out walking or biking the Beltline, and few will be able to resist Wonderkid. The all-day hangout has a “retro-modern” vibe, with a 1970s palette of olive, burnt orange, and brown, plus lounge seating where you might expect more table booths. Perhaps no dish on the menu makes the case for merging eras better than the falafel waffle, topped with tabbouleh and roasted eggplant dressing. Certain other meatless dishes remain works in progress, but Wonderkid caters to nonvegetarians, too, serving perfect diner eggs, a solid chili, and an outstanding meatloaf melt with bacon jam and pimento cheese. The desserts, including the caramel layer cake and pineapple Bundt cake, are “simply wonderful.” You can even grab a soft-serve cone on your way back out to the Beltway. 777 Memorial Drive SE, (404) 331-0909