Posh grits: Start the right way, and you’ll want them all day
If you’ve only ever eaten instant grits, you might assume that all grits taste like sawdust, says Mike Cioffi, Chris Bradley, and Sara B. Franklin in The Phoenicia Diner Cookbook (Clarkson Potter). “True grits are a revelation,” though. They’re slow to make. But they’re also warm and filling, “tasting distinctly of themselves and smelling like row upon row of field corn.”
At our upstate New York diner, grits are a staple, with rotating toppings that expand their versatility. The vegetarian version below never leaves the menu. “It’s light enough to feel virtuous and sophisticated enough to impress.” Just start the grits a day in advance. We recommend using Anson Mills Antebellum Coarse White Grits, which can be mail ordered.
Recipe of the week
Tomato, chickpea, and feta grits
2 pts cherry or grape tomatoes, halved ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp olive oil
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 garlic clove, minced
1 16 oz can chickpeas, rinsed and drained 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 tsp paprika
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
4 large eggs
Classic cheddar grits, warmed (recipe below) ½ cup crumbled feta cheese
Preheat oven to 375. In a large mixing bowl, toss tomatoes with 2 tbsp oil, thyme, and garlic, seasoned lightly with salt and black pepper. Spread them cut side down on a baking sheet lined with foil, and roast in oven until skins begin to blister, 20 to 25 minutes. Using a rubber spatula, turn tomatoes over; cook another 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from oven to cool.
Place chickpeas in a saucepan with ½ cup water or vegetable stock, ¼ cup olive oil, lemon juice, and paprika. Over medium heat, bring mixture just to a simmer; add roasted tomatoes and parsley and stir. Turn heat to lowest setting. Poach the eggs. Divide grits among four soup bowls. Top each with chickpea mixture and an egg. Sprinkle with feta and season with salt and black pepper. Serves 4.
Classic cheddar grits
1 cup coarse-ground grits
2 cups whole milk
1 tsp fine sea salt
1 cup grated aged white cheddar cheese 1 tbsp unsalted butter
In a heavy-bottomed pot, combine grits and 2 cups water. Gently stir with a wooden spoon. Skim off any hull or chaff that floats to the top, cover, and soak at room temperature overnight.
In the morning, add milk and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until grits begin to thicken and bubble, 7 to 10 minutes. Reduce heat to lowest setting and cover. Cook, uncovering only to stir every 20 minutes, until grits appear creamy but fairly firm. This can take 30 to 60 minutes. If grits seem dry, add up to ½ cup milk, 2 tbsp at a time, and cook until grits have smoothed, 10 to 15 minutes. When grits are fully cooked, add salt, cheese, and butter. Stir until incorporated, remove from heat, and finish with a few turns of a pepper mill.