Digaag qumbe: Grandma’s chicken stew by way of Somalia
The family-favorite recipe below starts with xawaash, a spice blend that’s “like the garam masala of Somalia,” said Hawa Hassan in In Bibi’s Kitchen (Ten Speed Press). It’s used in almost every dish and speaks of the rich trading history of the country I was born in. Every Somali cook makes a different version, but all prepare it batches to have some close at hand.
The stew comes together relatively quickly and should be served over rice or a bed of spinach. “Either way, serve it with bananas alongside for the most authentic Somali experience.” Take a bite between forkfuls— it’s a great tradition.
To make xawaash: Place cinnamon stick in a plastic zip-top bag, seal it, and bang with a mallet or skillet to break into small pieces. Place cinnamon and all other spices except the turmeric in a small heavy skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until spices are lightly toasted and very aromatic, about 2 minutes. Let cool. Transfer to a clean coffee grinder and grind to a fine powder. Add turmeric and whisk well. Store xawaash in an airtight jar in a cool, dark place.
To make the stew: In a blender, combine tomatoes, peppers, tomato paste, yogurt, xawaash, and salt. Puree until smooth and set aside.
Warm oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, until just beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato mixture, bring to a boil, then immediately lower heat, cover, and cook until very fragrant, about 10 minutes. Stir in potato, carrots, chicken, and coconut milk. Cover pot and cook, uncovering to stir occasionally, until vegetables are tender and chicken is cooked through, about 30 minutes.
Season to taste with salt. Spoon over cooked rice or spinach and sprinkle with cilantro. Serves 4.