Babylonian stew: Tapping the wisdom of the ancients
“We think of lost civilizations as being primitive in both taste and method, but this recipe proves the opposite,” said Christopher Kimball in Milk Street magazine. Recently translated from 4,000-yearold cuneiform tablets, it originally called for mutton, “red beets” (most likely turnips), and something called kurrat, a Persian chive. Our team made substitutions as necessary, but we didn’t change the essence of a recipe that, even today, “represents the heart and soul of the best sort of cooking.”
Try it some cold night. You’ll note that the Babylonians were wise enough to double up on ingredients (adding cilantro at the start and end), go big with alliums, and finish the dish with a “fresh, herbaceous topping.” ally, until lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Add garlic, coriander, and cumin; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Add beer, scraping up any browned bits. Simmer, stirring, until liquid has mostly evaporated. Stir in broth and ½ tsp each salt and pepper; return to a simmer. Add meat in an even layer. Return to a simmer, cover pot, place in oven, and cook for 2 hours. Uncover and return to oven; cook until a skewer inserted into shanks meets no resistance, 1 to 1½ hours. Using tongs, transfer shanks to a plate and set aside. Off heat, tilt pot to pool the cooking liquid, then use a wide spoon to skim off as much fat as possible.
Add turnips to pot and bring to a simmer on stove over medium heat. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until a skewer slides easily into turnips, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, using two forks, shred meat into bite-size pieces, discarding gristle and bones. When turnips are tender, add shredded meat to pot and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until just heated through, 5 minutes.
Off heat, stir in cilantro leaves and arugula and season to taste. Sprinkle each serving with chives and set lemon wedges on the side. Serves 4 to 6.