Flammekueche: The way to send your pizza night to Alsace
This gorgeous dish, an emblem of Alsatian cuisine, is the Franco-German answer to pizza, said Susan Herrmann Loomis in Plat du Jour (Countryman Press). It springs from farm tradition, when a single farmer typically baked bread for the village and made a flammekueche at the moment when the fire in his wood-burning oven was hottest.
A flammekueche comes together quickly, but you may have to make the fromage blanc if your store doesn’t carry it, or use extra crème fraîche as a substitute. The flammekueche should be burnt at the edges, the rest “baked to a creamy tenderness.” Serve it with a riesling or pinot gris and a big salad. And make at least three at a time, “because all will disappear.”
For each flammekueche: cover pan, and set in a warm spot (68 to 70 degrees) until solids separate from whey, about 3 hours. Add salt to taste. Tip solids into a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a bowl to drain, until texture resembles very soft goat’s cheese.
Prepare dough: In a large mixing bowl, whisk together yeast, 2 cups very warm tap water, and ½ cup flour. Let mixture sit just until it begins to bubble, then add sea salt and stir. Gradually add 2 cups flour, then stir in the olive oil. Add enough of remaining flour to make a dough that’s firm but not at all dry. Knead until smooth and satiny, 5 to 6 minutes. Place in a bowl, cover with a dampened tea towel, and let rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 450. Combine onion, cheese, creme fraîche, nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Let sit for 15 minutes.
Punch down dough, form into three balls, and roll one onto a lightly floured surface into a 10½-inch circle. Place on a baking sheet lightly dusted with flour or semolina. Spread onion mixture over dough right to edge. Sprinkle bacon on top. Bake until dough is crisp and bacon is browned, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately, dusted with more pepper, if you like.