Wine: Malbec’s rebound

Argentine malbec is back, said Michael Shachner in WineMag.com. The years 2014 to 2016 brought unusual weather to the high-elevation desert region of Mendoza, where most of the country’s wine is produced. Think frosts, drenching rains, and mildew. Malbecs since then, though, have returned to top form, especially those from 2018, “a year that saw near-perfect growing conditions.” 2018 Fabre Montmayou Reserva Malbec ($15). Though “a bit heady,” this nicely priced wine is “a highly satisfying malbec” that “adheres to the Mendoza style,” with flavors of berry, cassis, and chocolaty oak. 2018 Alta Vista Estate Malbec ($20). Expect “juicy acidity” and “lightly spicy plum and berry flavors” that are “slightly gamy and wild on the finish.”

2018 Kaiken Ultra Malbec ($20). Flavors of blackberry and cassis play against a “spiky acidity” here before finishing with hints of chocolate and toast.