The Week (US)

Wine: Txakolina


“Twenty years ago, txakolina was virtually unknown outside Spanish Basque country,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. But the effervesce­nt white wine, like so many once local wine treasures, has since gone global and found scattered fans everywhere. Made from grapes grown near the chilly Atlantic, txakolina (chock-oh-LEE-nah) can be

“as bracing as a plunge in cold saltwater.” These three are produced near the town of Getaria.

2020 Ameztoi ($22). “Steely and stony, with herbal and citrus undertones,” this Getariako txakolina has a light effervesce­nce that make it “joyous to drink.”

2020 Antxiola ($19). “Similarly light, vivacious, and stony,” this local rival has “a suggestion of lime zest” and delivers “a refreshing bitter note” on the finish. 2019 Ulacia ($20). A year older, the Ulacia offers “rounder flavors of citrus and green apple,” yet it’s “even more effervesce­nt than the others.”

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