Wine: Txakolina

“Twenty years ago, txakolina was virtually unknown outside Spanish Basque country,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. But the effervescent white wine, like so many once local wine treasures, has since gone global and found scattered fans everywhere. Made from grapes grown near the chilly Atlantic, txakolina (chock-oh-LEE-nah) can be

“as bracing as a plunge in cold saltwater.” These three are produced near the town of Getaria.

2020 Ameztoi ($22). “Steely and stony, with herbal and citrus undertones,” this Getariako txakolina has a light effervescence that make it “joyous to drink.”

2020 Antxiola ($19). “Similarly light, vivacious, and stony,” this local rival has “a suggestion of lime zest” and delivers “a refreshing bitter note” on the finish. 2019 Ulacia ($20). A year older, the Ulacia offers “rounder flavors of citrus and green apple,” yet it’s “even more effervescent than the others.”