Wine: Summer’s go-to red

“This summer, make it Chianti Classico,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Some meals simply demand red wine, and “sangiovese in its Chianti Classico form is a great match for steaks, burgers, sausages, and even grilled chicken. It has the depth to match their flavors, and acidity to refresh.” What’s more, “it takes nicely to a light chill.”

2018 Vigna Istine ($24). “Fresh and graceful, floral and elegant,” this Chianti is made from sangiovese grown in high-altitude vineyards where the soil is a mix of schist, sandstone, and limestone marl. 2018 Fèlsina Berardenga ($25). “Bigger and rounder than the Istine,” this wine will grow even better with age. It has firm tannins and “earthy, stony flavors of ripe red fruits.” 2017 La Misse di Candialle ($24). “This lovely wine has spicy, peppery flavors of red cherries and flowers, with firm tannins that will soften with a few years aging.”