Oysters from the grill: A briny, smoky summer indulgence
Grilled oysters are “one of summer’s simplest pleasures,” said J. Kenji López-Alt in The New York Times. I have always loved raw oysters, but I became an advocate of grilling after tasting the results when I worked at a sashimi restaurant in Boston and an Italian restaurant in Louisiana. With grilling, you don’t have to bother shucking the oysters. The heat also eliminates any concern about saltwater bacteria that can become concentrated in oysters plucked from warmer waters.
But the best reason to grill oysters: the pleasure of devouring a hot oyster lightly touched by smoke and swimming in a rich, flavorful sauce.
Recipe of the week
Grilled oysters with lemony garlic-herb butter
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pats 1 cup fresh parsley leaves, roughly chopped 1 cup fresh basil leaves
6 medium garlic cloves, finely minced 1 lemon, zested and juiced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 24 oysters (preferably with large, deeply cupped shells) scrubbed clean of any sand or grit under cool running water
Prepare the grill: Ignite a full chimney of coals and spread out under one side of grill once they are fully covered in gray ash, or heat half the burners of a gas grill to high. Cover and let grill heat for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, cut off a sheet of aluminum foil twice the length of a 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet. Crumple it so that it fits into baking sheet and the crumpling will support the oysters and prevent them from tipping.
In a food processor, combine butter, parsley, basil, garlic, lemon zest and juice, a large pinch of salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Process until herbs are finely chopped and there are no large chunks of butter remaining, about 30 seconds total, stopping to scrape sides of the food processor as needed. Transfer mixture to a small, oven-safe saucepan.
Using tongs, arrange oysters over hot side of grill, placing them with cupped sides down, setting them so that oyster juices don’t pour out when they open. Cover and cook, checking every minute or so, and transferring any oysters that have begun to gape open to the baking sheet. After a total of 4 minutes, remove remaining oysters whether they’ve opened or not. Place saucepan on cool side of grill to melt butter.
As soon as oysters are cool enough to handle, pry off top shells with a butter knife or oyster knife, severing the muscle that holds the oyster to the shell and retaining as much juice as possible. For oysters that aren’t open, pry off lids by inserting the tip of a knife into the joint and firmly twisting.
Spoon a generous 1 tsp of melted garlicherb butter into each oyster, then lay oysters directly on grates on the hot side of grill. Cook, uncovered, until sauce mixture is bubbling hot, about 1 minute. Return oysters to foil-lined baking sheet and serve immediately.
And for a spicy alternative sauce: Follow all the steps above but create the sauce using ½ cup unsalted butter, cup harissa, 1 oz grated Parmesan, and 6 minced garlic cloves.