Critics’ choice: The enduring flavors of Spain
El Quijote
New York City Before the old El Quijote shut down four years ago, there were nights when the paella had the consistency of yesterday’s oatmeal, said Pete Wells in The New York Times. “But faded splendor is still splendor,” and thanks to the cheap sangria, the servers in red blazers, and the artistic clientele, the dusty mainstay on the ground floor of the Hotel Chelsea “could almost always turn an evening into an event.” Fortunately, the new owners knew what they had, and they’ve renovated the main space “with all the sensitivity any urban nostalgist could ask for.” The thoroughly refreshed menu now includes tapas with amped-up flavor, a
$72 paella strewn with both shellfish and rabbit, and a grilled lobster “dripping with smoky pimentòn butter and sherry.” The kitchen and cocktail director sometimes forget that “the genius of traditional Spanish cooking lies in knowing when to leave well enough alone.” Still, this smaller, more expensive El Quijote is one of the better Spanish restaurants in the city again. I miss the “sprawling, sheltering atmosphere” of the old version, “but not much else.” 226 W. 23rd St., (212) 518-1843
Bocadillo Market
Chicago
If you ever stroll past this new Lincoln Park eatery, “you might believe you’ve stumbled upon a small storefront café in Barcelona,” said Louisa Chu in the Chicago Tribune.
In the morning, you can grab a churro and cortado. At lunchtime, chef-owner James Martin assembles the Spanish sandwiches that lend the place their name, such as a small toasted baguette topped with herb aioli and stacked high with crispy fried calamari. But you’ll want to return for dinner, when Martin, who is Black, blends classic Spanish cuisine with hints of the American South. His paella, featuring seared Cadiz tuna, little clams, and squid-ink rice, is “a seaside escape in every spoonful.” But it’s his Spanish bean stew that best bridges the two cultures. An ode to his mother, Mable, it combines lima beans cooked in a ham