Critics’ choice: Dinner at the hotel, in three cities
Koloman New York City
New York City hasn’t had an Austrian restaurant that could match the “opulence and caliber” of Koloman in almost 15 years, said Robert Sietsema in Eater. Occupying a dual-level space inside the Ace Hotel and taking its name and aesthetic from Kolomon Moser, an influential Viennese artist and designer, the months-old venture “offers dishes artistically plated with Paul Klee colors, a thoughtful wine list favoring Champagnes, and service that might be deemed stuffy if it weren’t so warm.” When the whipped butter for our poppy-seed rolls arrived under a glass dome that was removed with a flourish, “we wondered if we had time-traveled to 1980.” But then the focus turned to chef Markus Glocker’s food, which favors Austrian cuisine’s earthy flavors. After “cushiony” gougères and a celery root tartare that was “a culinary trompe l’oeil of steak tartare,” we were wowed by the very traditional veal schnitzel and a salmon en croûte plated with greens, oranges, and a mahogany-colored beet gravy. We found our soufflé less thrilling but finished with a knockout apple strudel, completing a meal we’re sure to remember for years. 16 W. 29th St.
Mara Minneapolis
Expectations couldn’t have been higher when Minneapolis’ most acclaimed celebrity chef signed on to open a restaurant in the city’s first five-star hotel, said Jason DeRusha in Minneapolis Monthly. “So how is it that Mara not only meets expectations but exceeds them?” The magic of Gavin Kaysen’s venture inside the Four Seasons begins with next-level service and a warm but sparkling room studded with CEOs and star athletes. The food is loosely described as Mediterranean, but in execution “it’s more about an exploration of international flavors anchored in the sensibility of Minnesota.” The “sleeper hit” on the menu is Pequot Lakes–raised chicken marinated overnight in chermoula, an herbal North African sauce. You can start with shaved Mangalica ham or a lamb tartare spiced with ras el hanout, and move on to a perfect steak from Peterson Craftsman Meats. The salt-crusted branzino is pricy at $68, and can contribute to a bill that will easily top $200 a person, with wine and cocktails. “Is it worth it? Absolutely.” 245 Hennepin Ave.
Desmond San Diego
A restaurant located on the second floor of the off-the-beaten-path Kimpton Alma hotel doesn’t exactly scream destination dining, said Pam Kragen in The San Diego UnionTribune. But Jason Neroni’s seasonal menu at Desmond is “filled with savory and surprising dishes” that only sound like the food at every other San Diego restaurant. Is there a Brussels sprouts appetizer? Sure. “But it’s served in a belly-warming dashi broth with Japanese curry and a poached egg.” Yes, there’s pan-roasted octopus, too. “But it’s glazed with vibrant oyster sauce and chorizo emulsion.” The beet salad is served over labneh, topped with raspberry powder and fresh berries, and drizzled with black-garlic molasses. Neroni’s obsession with pasta making finds decadent expression in bucatini with lobster claws, served in ’njuda vodka sauce with pickled chiles and fresh basil. Once a rising star in New York City, Neroni moved home to San Diego in 2009, landing at Solana Beach’s Blanca. Back then, “San Diego wasn’t ready for Neroni’s outside-the-lines cooking.”
But our tastes have changed. Here’s hoping we’ll appreciate him now. 1047 5th Ave.