Wine: Lambrusco renewed

“Lambrusco is the OG of alternative sparkling wine,” said Jeff Porter in Wine Enthusiast. Made from a family of wild grapes, the Italian sparkler dates to preRoman times and deserves notice by anyone who’s into funky pét-nats. Quality lambrusco comes in many styles, from bone dry to sweet and “from slightly fizzy to full-on bubbly.”

2020 Podere Giardino Suoli Cataldi Rosso ($18). As serious as it is fun, this lambrusco features notes of sour plum and hoisin sauce, and “shines best” with savory snacks.

2021 Paltrinieri ‘Radice’ Lambrusco di Sorbara ($24). This lively pink wine offers fresh strawberry, boysenberry, and pomegranate flavors, enlivened by crisp acidity.

2020 Sebastian Van de Sype ‘Ancestrale’ Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro ($31). In this red sparkler, notes of black raspberry and sour cherry meet savory herb and smoked game.