Feta balances watermelon in a cooling salad

Summer’s heat often lingers long past Labor Day. To my way of thinking the lure of a refreshing watermelon salad, chilled and seductively sweet, is on point throughout early fall in Southern California. Variations on the salad theme are many, but most often the recipes include a frisky cheese.

In this simple watermelon-centric recipe from “Mediterranean,” a cookbook written by Susie Theodorou (Kyle Books, $27.99), feta cheese is the counterpoint to the sweet, crisp melon. A pour-from-the-bottle vinaigrette and some fresh mint add even more vibrant flavors. If you like, accompany the mix with a slab of crusty baguette.

Watermelon and feta salad

Yield: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

About 1 1⁄4 pounds watermelon, cut into 3⁄4-inch thick triangles; see cook’s notes 4tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Leaves from 1⁄2 bunch fresh mint, large leaves torn in half 5-6-ounce block of feta cheese, broken into chunks Optional: edible flowers such as nasturtiums or arugula blooms Fresh lemon juice or balsamic vinegar, to taste

Cook’s notes: You can leave the rind on the watermelon if you prefer that presentation. If not, using a sharp knife, cut away the green skin and rind up to where the sweet watermelon flesh begins.

PROCEDURE

1. Layer about 4 watermelon wedges on each plate (or layer all wedges on a platter), slightly overlapping. 2. Drizzle with olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Top with mint, feta chunks and edible flowers, if using. Finish with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice or a thin drizzle of balsamic vinegar.

Source: “Mediterranean,” by Susie Theodorou (Kyle Books, $27.99)

PHOTO BY JOHN KERNICK Watermelon and feta salad is often served with fresh mint leaves.