Travel Guide to California

SHASTA CASCADE

A mystical mountain watches over an outdoor adventure paradise

- BY JOHN FLINN

TOP CITIES

Redding, Mount Shasta City, Weavervill­e, Weed, Chico, Oroville

GATEWAY

Redding Municipal Airport (RDD) has flights from Los Angeles and San Francisco, and is 9 miles (14 km) from the Redding city center

TOURISM WEBSITES visitsiski­youcounty.com shastacasc­ade.com discoverkl­amath.com visitreddi­ng.com

POPULATION 274,000

Poets, artists, adventurer­s and New Age mystics are drawn inexorably to snow-capped Mount Shasta, which juts 14,179 feet into the Northern California sky. It is such an imposing presence that it creates its own weather—most notably the strange-looking lenticular clouds that form on its summit. Some people see in them a jaunty beret, others a UFO mother ship. Some believe the mountain to be a vortex for spiritual activity, and at least two religions have been founded on its flanks.

Mount Shasta is the focal point of one of California’s leastpopul­ated regions, a land of high-desert tumbleweed­s, majestic rivers and craggy volcanoes. This is where the West Coast’s two major mountain ranges—the Sierra Nevada and the Cascades—run headlong into each other.

Just to the south of Shasta, Mount Lassen, the southernmo­st of the Cascade peaks, erupted in 1914-1917, spewing ash as far as 200 miles away. Today, pots of boiling mud and steam vents smelling of rotten eggs attest that this volcano is far from dormant.

To the west rise the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountains, relatively unvisited gems that are popular venues for fly fishing

and horseback trips. To the north, the Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuge, which extends into southern Oregon, is part of the Pacific Flyway: In the fall its skies are darkened by more than a million migratory birds.

City & Town

For travelers, Redding was nothing more than a pit stop along Interstate 5 until the opening of the instantly iconic Sundial Bridge across the Sacramento River in 2004. On the lower flanks of its namesake peak, Mount Shasta City sports a main street lined with New Age bookstores and shops selling crystals said to have mystical powers. No less an authority than James Hilton, author of Lost Horizon, once claimed that the pretty alpine hamlet of Weavervill­e, gateway to the Trinity Alps, was the closest he’s ever come to a real-life Shangri-la.

The Great Outdoors

Mount Shasta is irresistib­le to climbers; in the spring, summit-seekers are strung out along its most popular routes like ants on an anthill. To get to the top you need an ice axe, crampons and the skill to use them safely. But on Mount Lassen, its neighbor to the south, a well-graded trail runs all the way to the 10,457-foot-high summit. World-class fly fishing abounds in the Trinity Alps, and those willing to walk a short distance with their rods are almost guaranteed a spot to themselves. On the Salmon River, between the Trinity Alps and

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 ??  ?? SUNSET TROUT FISHING at Manzanita Lake, Lassen Volcanic National Park, below; Mount Shasta, opposite.
SUNSET TROUT FISHING at Manzanita Lake, Lassen Volcanic National Park, below; Mount Shasta, opposite.

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