Travel + Leisure (USA)

Road-Tripping in the Balkans

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MELNIK

Zornitza Family Estate

This Relais & Châteaux hotel, spa, vineyard, and farm has its own wine label (plus golf). zornitza estate.com; doubles from $375.

Rozhenski Han

A rustic spot for Bulgarian farm cooking—and plenty of rounds of rakia. 359-89-827-2757; entrées $8–$15.

SOFIA

Hyatt Regency Sofia

This modern hotel is already a favorite for its stylish rooftop lounge. hyatt.com; doubles from $140.

Raketa Rakia Bar

Communist-era toys, television­s, and other artifacts make this space memorable. raketaraki­abar.bg. 365 Associatio­n Tours

Walking tours in the capital with themes like Communist history or Jewish heritage. 365associa­tion.org.

PLOVDIV AND THE ROSE VALLEY

Hotel Evmolpia

Comfortabl­e rooms inside an Ottoman-style building in the old town. hotelevmol­pia.com; doubles from $65.

Pavaj

Locals love this cozy spot for its updates on traditiona­l recipes and impressive rakia list. fb.com/pavaj.plovdiv; entrées $6–$15.

Bendida

A bottle shop and tasting room that focuses on wines from the region. bendida.eu.

Kazanlak Rose Festival

The center of Bulgaria’s rose industry is in full bloom over several weeks in May or June, depending on the harvest. rosefestiv­al kazanlak.com.

THE RHODOPE MOUNTAINS

Villa Gella

A sleek six-bedroom chalet near the hamlet of Gela with luxe amenities, home-cooked meals, and unbeatable views. villagella.com; doubles from $240, buyout from $1,295 per night.

Hotel Gela

Rhodopean culinary traditions are the focus of this small hotel’s stellar restaurant. hotelgela.com; entrées $16–$27.

HOW TO BOOK

Jay Ternavan

An Eastern Europe specialist on the T+L A-List, Ternavan can curate a countrywid­e itinerary similar to the writer’s, with visits to museums and monasterie­s—plus the option to extend into Romania or Serbia. jay@jaywaytrav­el.com; 914-500-8984.

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