Project Over/Un­der: Part 6.5

Re­build­ing Our Freshly Painted Silverado With Move, Anzo, LMC, N-Fab, ATC, and AAC


Re­build­ing our freshly painted Silverado with new parts from Move, Anzo, LMC, N-Fab, ATC, and AAC

When we left off with Project Over/Un­der, we were at LGE-CTS in San Di­mas, Cal­i­for­nia, where we started putting our ’03 Silverado back to­gether af­ter lay­ing down the cus­tom satin tan Auto-Air Col­ors paint. Last month, we cov­ered all the un­sexy but nec­es­sary items, in­clud­ing re­build­ing the doors and clean­ing up the frame, as well as re­in­stalling some of the awe­some parts we al­ready in­stalled, like the SnugTop and Yakima rack.

Do you see all those ini­tials and short words up there in the deck of this story? They rep­re­sent all the cool parts we’re about to in­stall to not only make this truck look killer—but ac­tu­ally func­tion as a us­able of­froad ve­hi­cle. We be­gan with a pair of stout new bumpers from the Pre­ci­sion line of Move Bumpers. They come as an af­ford­able DIY kit you weld your­self. We ac­tu­ally had ours welded up by some friends of Move in the in­ter­est of time, but we didn’t miss out on all the fun. This bumper was de­signed for HD mod­els of this body style, so we spent an af­ter­noon at En­gle Brothers Fab­ri­ca­tion mak­ing ad­just­ments to the front brack­ets so it would work on a 1500. From there, it was off to Coast Pow­der Coat­ing in San Cle­mente, Cal­i­for­nia, for a tex­tured satin black fin­ish. The Move bumpers come with stan­dard-size cutouts for LED light­ing, so we con­tacted All Ter­rain Con­cepts to pro­vide the 20-inch light­bar and six pods to fill the voids. In or­der to get the lights func­tion­ing the eas­i­est way pos­si­ble, we con­tacted AAC for its Trig­ger Six-Shooter wire­less ac­ces­sory con­troller. It mounts un­der the hood and fea­tures a re­mote-wire­less switch setup that saves a ton of wiring that nor­mally has to hap­pen to get your switches up near the dash.

With the bumpers in­stalled, the rear of the ex­te­rior was com­plete. Mov­ing to­ward the front, we in­stalled the tried-and-true N-Fab Nerf Step Sys­tem. It has a sec­ond step at the bed to aid in ac­cess­ing the roof rack and comes in the same tex­tures we’re us­ing else­where on the truck. Up at the front, we in­stalled black and clear Crys­tal U-bar head­lights and a set of black LED park lights from Anzo. The fi­nal el­e­ment was our ’06 SS grille from LMC, to which we added a black bil­let bow tie in ad­di­tion to paint­ing it with our tex­tured satin black paint.

With that, we’re call­ing the ex­te­rior of Project Over/Un­der com­plete! Check out the pho­tos and cap­tions to see how we did it—and make sure to pe­ruse all the web­sites in the source box, be­cause all these great part­ners make parts for your truck, too! Next month, we will fi­nally be putting some much­needed dis­tance between the truck and the ground in the form of a 7-inch lift and 35-inch tires! Stay tuned, and fol­low the en­tire build at

1. We wanted to re­mind you what we started with.

2. When we left off last month, we built out the doors, re­in­stalled the SnugTop and Yakima rack, and painted the ar­eas be­hind where our new parts were be­ing bolted up. But the most dra­matic changes are yet to come.

3. N-Fab Nerf steps fit this build per­fectly, as we wanted full-length bars with a sec­ond step at the bed to help ac­cess the roof rack. You do have to drill holes, but other than that it’s a sim­ple bolt-on af­fair.

4. Anzo light­ing is an easy way to make a dra­matic change on the front end, which we are all about. The U-bar halo-ef­fect black head­lights and black LED park lights are ex­actly what we were look­ing for.

5. LMC Truck has it all, in­clud­ing the ’06 SS grille we were af­ter. We scuffed it, painted it with satin black, then added the black bil­let bow tie.

6. All Ter­rain Con­cepts sells life­time-war­rantied LED light­bars and pods—and at a lower price point than most. Its 20-inch bar and six pods will fill out the bumpers per­fectly.

7. The AAC Trig­ger Six-Shooter pro­vides one-stop shop­ping to get your LED light­ing or other ac­ces­sories wired up. The mo­d­ule mounts un­der the hood and pro­vides two 30-amp, two 10-amp, and two 5-amp cir­cuits. The 2.4-gi­ga­hertz fre­quency hop­ping en­sures a solid con­nec­tion to the re­mote. There’s even an app to hit the lights by phone or check the volt­age.

8. We’ve fol­lowed the builds of Move Bumpers be­fore, so we were ex­cited to work with the com­pany on this project. We think its Pre­ci­sion bumpers are the best-look­ing bumpers out there for this truck. We cheated a lit­tle and had some friends of Move do the weld­ing, and they left the brack­ets off up front so we could fit the 2500 bumper to a 1500.

9. Over at En­gle Brothers Fab­ri­ca­tion, in Foun­tain Val­ley, Cal­i­for­nia, we got busy with some test-fit­ting. We quickly de­ter­mined we needed to make the bot­tom cutout a lit­tle big­ger to clear the ex­ist­ing re­ceiver hitch. David made quick work of that with a plasma cut­ter and 4-inch grinder.

10. Now we had a per­fect fit on the rear, and it was ready to bolt up.

11. Up front, things were a lit­tle dif­fer­ent. We re­ally only had to move the brack­ets a cou­ple of inches down to get a per­fect fit, but since ev­ery sur­face is at an an­gle, some ex­tra think­ing, trim­ming, and re­in­force­ment was in or­der.

12. Soon, we had the bumper right where we wanted it—and the brack­ets were se­cure and ready to bolt up.

13. Coast Pow­der Coat­ing is a big sup­porter of the off-road com­mu­nity, as wit­nessed by the many years of thank-you pho­tos on the show­room walls. The crew was happy to help us give the Move bumpers a satin black tex­ture to match the rest of the truck.

16. At this point, the lights were in­stalled, and we had the hard­ware ready to in­stall this bumper for good.

17. We set the bumper in place and got some bolts started, then checked for a per­fect fit­ment where the bumper meets the fend­ers.

18. In­stalling the re­main­ing two LED pods in the rear was as sim­ple as bolt­ing them to the brack­ets.

19. First, we at­tached a new set of LMC bumper brack­ets to the frame, then we set the bumper in place and dou­ble-checked the fit­ment be­fore bolt­ing it up for good. And, just like that, the rear of the truck was done.

14. The re­sults were per­fect. We now had a coat­ing on the bumpers that was as strong as the bumpers them­selves.

15. Move in­cludes the LED light cutouts and mount­ing brack­ets for the light­bar and the pods. Those squig­gly lines in the pre­vi­ous photo en­sure you can get any pod on the mar­ket spaced per­fectly in the hole.

20. Mov­ing to the sides of the Silverado, we held the N-Fab Nerf steps in place and marked the four holes.

21. We made quick work of the four holes with a uni-bit, then we sim­ply bolted the steps up with the sup­plied hard­ware.

22. We were stoked with the easy in­stal­la­tion and good look­ing re­sults of the N-Fab steps. And their black satin tex­ture was spot on with ours!

23. For Anzo’s U-bar halo ef­fect to work, two wires must be spliced into the park light lead.

24. Af­ter that, it was a lit­eral plug-and-play af­fair.

25. The same goes for the head­lights. Anzo makes this setup as easy as pos­si­ble.

26. By this time, we had the LMC SS grille painted to match the rest of the black on the truck, and we bolted up the black bil­let bow tie from LMC. The grille comes with the new clips al­ready in­stalled, so it just snaps into place.

27. Be­fore we could light things up and call the ex­te­rior com­plete, we had to wire up our All Ter­rain Con­cepts lights in our Move bumpers. The Trig­ger Six-Shooter came to the res­cue with a clean sys­tem that makes the light wiring process a whole lot eas­ier. We started by wiring the four front pod LEDs to­gether. Scott Cover from AAC even stopped by to show off his sol­der­ing skills.

28. Soon, we had the two con­nec­tors ready to plug into the Trig­ger con­troller. And every­thing we did along the way was shrinkwrapped to be 100 per­cent weath­er­proof.

29. We used a fuse tap to hook up the switched 12-volt wire in the fac­tory fuse box.

30. Then we at­tached the power and ground wires from the con­troller to the bat­tery.

31. At this point, we mounted the Trig­ger con­troller to the top of the fuse box with dou­ble-sided tape. Then we plugged our two light wires from the front bumper into the first two leads on the con­troller and tucked those and the un­used leads out of the way. And we’re not just point­ing at the num­bers; you can ac­tu­ally con­trol the lights from the con­troller un­der the hood.

32. We spliced the wires on the rear bumper just be­fore it was mounted and made an ex­ten­sion that ran along the frame to the front of the truck. Then it was con­nected to the num­ber three plug on the con­troller.

33. The mag­netic mount­ing pad for the RF re­mote switches fits per­fectly into the un­used cubby hole on our dash. We made up a small 90-de­gree bracket and screwed it in so the mount­ing pad would float in place per­fectly.

34. Our fi­nal step was to snap the re­mote switches in place, but we wanted to re­it­er­ate how sim­ple this process is since you don’t have to wire up each switch. Also, the switches can be used just like this— out­side of the ve­hi­cle!

35. Fi­nally, our front end is com­plete. Other than the fend­ers, every­thing you see was re­placed to get this newer, HD, cus­tom look we were go­ing af­ter. This was a long time com­ing, and we were ec­static with the re­sults.

36. Then we hit the lights and got even more ex­cited. This old work truck looks mean! Check back next month when we fi­nally do the most im­por­tant mod­i­fi­ca­tion of all!

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