Project Over/Under: Part 6.5
Rebuilding Our Freshly Painted Silverado With Move, Anzo, LMC, N-Fab, ATC, and AAC
Rebuilding our freshly painted Silverado with new parts from Move, Anzo, LMC, N-Fab, ATC, and AAC
When we left off with Project Over/Under, we were at LGE-CTS in San Dimas, California, where we started putting our ’03 Silverado back together after laying down the custom satin tan Auto-Air Colors paint. Last month, we covered all the unsexy but necessary items, including rebuilding the doors and cleaning up the frame, as well as reinstalling some of the awesome parts we already installed, like the SnugTop and Yakima rack.
Do you see all those initials and short words up there in the deck of this story? They represent all the cool parts we’re about to install to not only make this truck look killer—but actually function as a usable offroad vehicle. We began with a pair of stout new bumpers from the Precision line of Move Bumpers. They come as an affordable DIY kit you weld yourself. We actually had ours welded up by some friends of Move in the interest of time, but we didn’t miss out on all the fun. This bumper was designed for HD models of this body style, so we spent an afternoon at Engle Brothers Fabrication making adjustments to the front brackets so it would work on a 1500. From there, it was off to Coast Powder Coating in San Clemente, California, for a textured satin black finish. The Move bumpers come with standard-size cutouts for LED lighting, so we contacted All Terrain Concepts to provide the 20-inch lightbar and six pods to fill the voids. In order to get the lights functioning the easiest way possible, we contacted AAC for its Trigger Six-Shooter wireless accessory controller. It mounts under the hood and features a remote-wireless switch setup that saves a ton of wiring that normally has to happen to get your switches up near the dash.
With the bumpers installed, the rear of the exterior was complete. Moving toward the front, we installed the tried-and-true N-Fab Nerf Step System. It has a second step at the bed to aid in accessing the roof rack and comes in the same textures we’re using elsewhere on the truck. Up at the front, we installed black and clear Crystal U-bar headlights and a set of black LED park lights from Anzo. The final element was our ’06 SS grille from LMC, to which we added a black billet bow tie in addition to painting it with our textured satin black paint.
With that, we’re calling the exterior of Project Over/Under complete! Check out the photos and captions to see how we did it—and make sure to peruse all the websites in the source box, because all these great partners make parts for your truck, too! Next month, we will finally be putting some muchneeded distance between the truck and the ground in the form of a 7-inch lift and 35-inch tires! Stay tuned, and follow the entire build at truckin.com.
1. We wanted to remind you what we started with.
2. When we left off last month, we built out the doors, reinstalled the SnugTop and Yakima rack, and painted the areas behind where our new parts were being bolted up. But the most dramatic changes are yet to come.
3. N-Fab Nerf steps fit this build perfectly, as we wanted full-length bars with a second step at the bed to help access the roof rack. You do have to drill holes, but other than that it’s a simple bolt-on affair.
4. Anzo lighting is an easy way to make a dramatic change on the front end, which we are all about. The U-bar halo-effect black headlights and black LED park lights are exactly what we were looking for.
5. LMC Truck has it all, including the ’06 SS grille we were after. We scuffed it, painted it with satin black, then added the black billet bow tie.
6. All Terrain Concepts sells lifetime-warrantied LED lightbars and pods—and at a lower price point than most. Its 20-inch bar and six pods will fill out the bumpers perfectly.
7. The AAC Trigger Six-Shooter provides one-stop shopping to get your LED lighting or other accessories wired up. The module mounts under the hood and provides two 30-amp, two 10-amp, and two 5-amp circuits. The 2.4-gigahertz frequency hopping ensures a solid connection to the remote. There’s even an app to hit the lights by phone or check the voltage.
8. We’ve followed the builds of Move Bumpers before, so we were excited to work with the company on this project. We think its Precision bumpers are the best-looking bumpers out there for this truck. We cheated a little and had some friends of Move do the welding, and they left the brackets off up front so we could fit the 2500 bumper to a 1500.
9. Over at Engle Brothers Fabrication, in Fountain Valley, California, we got busy with some test-fitting. We quickly determined we needed to make the bottom cutout a little bigger to clear the existing receiver hitch. David made quick work of that with a plasma cutter and 4-inch grinder.
10. Now we had a perfect fit on the rear, and it was ready to bolt up.
11. Up front, things were a little different. We really only had to move the brackets a couple of inches down to get a perfect fit, but since every surface is at an angle, some extra thinking, trimming, and reinforcement was in order.
12. Soon, we had the bumper right where we wanted it—and the brackets were secure and ready to bolt up.
13. Coast Powder Coating is a big supporter of the off-road community, as witnessed by the many years of thank-you photos on the showroom walls. The crew was happy to help us give the Move bumpers a satin black texture to match the rest of the truck.
16. At this point, the lights were installed, and we had the hardware ready to install this bumper for good.
17. We set the bumper in place and got some bolts started, then checked for a perfect fitment where the bumper meets the fenders.
18. Installing the remaining two LED pods in the rear was as simple as bolting them to the brackets.
19. First, we attached a new set of LMC bumper brackets to the frame, then we set the bumper in place and double-checked the fitment before bolting it up for good. And, just like that, the rear of the truck was done.
14. The results were perfect. We now had a coating on the bumpers that was as strong as the bumpers themselves.
15. Move includes the LED light cutouts and mounting brackets for the lightbar and the pods. Those squiggly lines in the previous photo ensure you can get any pod on the market spaced perfectly in the hole.
20. Moving to the sides of the Silverado, we held the N-Fab Nerf steps in place and marked the four holes.
21. We made quick work of the four holes with a uni-bit, then we simply bolted the steps up with the supplied hardware.
22. We were stoked with the easy installation and good looking results of the N-Fab steps. And their black satin texture was spot on with ours!
23. For Anzo’s U-bar halo effect to work, two wires must be spliced into the park light lead.
24. After that, it was a literal plug-and-play affair.
25. The same goes for the headlights. Anzo makes this setup as easy as possible.
26. By this time, we had the LMC SS grille painted to match the rest of the black on the truck, and we bolted up the black billet bow tie from LMC. The grille comes with the new clips already installed, so it just snaps into place.
27. Before we could light things up and call the exterior complete, we had to wire up our All Terrain Concepts lights in our Move bumpers. The Trigger Six-Shooter came to the rescue with a clean system that makes the light wiring process a whole lot easier. We started by wiring the four front pod LEDs together. Scott Cover from AAC even stopped by to show off his soldering skills.
28. Soon, we had the two connectors ready to plug into the Trigger controller. And everything we did along the way was shrinkwrapped to be 100 percent weatherproof.
29. We used a fuse tap to hook up the switched 12-volt wire in the factory fuse box.
30. Then we attached the power and ground wires from the controller to the battery.
31. At this point, we mounted the Trigger controller to the top of the fuse box with double-sided tape. Then we plugged our two light wires from the front bumper into the first two leads on the controller and tucked those and the unused leads out of the way. And we’re not just pointing at the numbers; you can actually control the lights from the controller under the hood.
32. We spliced the wires on the rear bumper just before it was mounted and made an extension that ran along the frame to the front of the truck. Then it was connected to the number three plug on the controller.
33. The magnetic mounting pad for the RF remote switches fits perfectly into the unused cubby hole on our dash. We made up a small 90-degree bracket and screwed it in so the mounting pad would float in place perfectly.
34. Our final step was to snap the remote switches in place, but we wanted to reiterate how simple this process is since you don’t have to wire up each switch. Also, the switches can be used just like this— outside of the vehicle!
35. Finally, our front end is complete. Other than the fenders, everything you see was replaced to get this newer, HD, custom look we were going after. This was a long time coming, and we were ecstatic with the results.
36. Then we hit the lights and got even more excited. This old work truck looks mean! Check back next month when we finally do the most important modification of all!