Fashion gurus give skinny on dressing well

While some NBA players are grumbling about the new NBA dress code, the guidelines actually are in step with the latest fashion trend. In the workplace, dressing down is out and dressing up is in, according to fashion experts.

Beverly Smith, Vibe fashion editor at large, thinks the players will adapt: “ I think that once they get over the shock of this being foisted on them, theywill ' nd there is a world of opportunity to be individuals more than before and to actually set fashion trends. A lot of them are following the looks of rappers. And nowyou are seeing more of these guys dressing up.”

For years, young people, including NBA stars, have embraced the hip- hop lifestyle, from its music to itsway of dress. But now hip- hop stars led by Jay- Z are going for a more dressed- up look. Jay- Z, a part owner of the New Jersey Nets, is even seeking to

Dress code:

My feeling with these dress codes is that it feels so 1950s. I think Allen Iverson said it best. He said his casual attire is who he is. I must say I agree with that. But again, there is nothing wrong with guys in suits, but there has to be a retooling of howthese guys are wearing their suits.

Business casual:

The slack and dress shirt look can look a little more old mannish. I think it is more dif ' cult to pull off. Casual for me always means a jacket, a tweed jacket or corduroy. I saw Kobe ( Bryant) in a

corduroy jacket, and it looked

really nice. The nucleus would

be the sport coat and great

khaki slacks from say Abercrombie (& Fitch). And laceup shoes and a dress shirt, but

it is so much more complicated to put these pieces together.

In: I lean more toward wearing a suit and dressing it down a bit. It is a cooler look.

Out: I notice a lot of NBA players wear their suits too big. And let’s lose the pleated pants.

On suits:

I would encourage these NBA guys to stop wearing four- or ' ve- button. Everyone should start thinking two and three. And everyone should be looking at two- button. It’s sexier and, yes, slimming.

On shirts:

Go for an expensive dress shirt with a spread collar so when you take the tie off and take the coat off, the collar stands up. And tuck in the shirts.

Footwear: Go with lace up in brown or black. They de ' nitely have to stay away from the square shoe. The shoe should be dressy, too. A slim shoe, lace up, or loafer.

One more thing:

Shop retail and see what is in fashion. Also: For shirts— pale blue, pink, stripes and gingham of any kind. Jim Moore, GQ, creative director NBA dress code

Players are required to wear business casual attire whenever they are engaged in team or league business.

Proper attire

A long or short- sleeved dress shirt ( collared or turtleneck) and/ or a sweater. Sport coat ( when on the bench or in the stands), dress slacks, khaki pants or dress jeans.

Appropriate shoes and socks, including dress shoes, dress boots or other presentable shoes but not including sneakers, sandals, " ip- " ops or work boots.

Excluded items

Items that players are not allowed to wearwhile on team or league business:

Sleeveless shirts, shorts, T- shirts, jerseys or sports apparel ( unless appropriate for the event, such as a basketball clinic, team- identi ' ed and approved by the team).

Headgear of any kind while a player is sitting on the bench or in the stands at a game, during media interviews or during a team or league event or appearance ( unless appropriate for the event or appearance, team- identi ' ed and approved by the team).

Chains, pendants or medallionsworn over the player’s clothes; sunglasses while indoors; headphones ( other than on the team bus or plane or in the team locker room). launch a formal clothing line.

Says Smith, “ Kanye West is one of the biggest rappers, and he is alwayswell put together in his own way. He doesn’t look like an old man. I knowthey are thinking these guys are smaller, but there are options for the NBA guys even though they are tall.”

With the NBA dress code going into effectwith the start of the season Tuesday, USA TODAY’s Julie Ward talked with Smith and Nick Sullivan of Esquire and Jim Moore of Gentleman’s Quarterly about the new fashion guidelines. For playerswho average 6- 7 and whose minimum salary last season was $ 385,000, expensive custom tailoring, rather than off the rack, is the only option. However, the good news is there is no shortage of designers and retail stores who do custom and made- to- measure clothing from top to bottom. What the fashion experts say:

San Antonio Spurs’ Tim Duncan: The forward will have to don dress jeans and

ditch sneakers when he’s not in uniform on

the team bench. Nick Sullivan, Esquire fashion director

Dress code:

Well, it is quite stiff, isn’t it? I was going through it and I can understand why the NBA would want to do it, but it is interesting you had banks and others institutions years ago telling people to dress down and now it is dress up. It is now coming full circle. . . . It could remove any individuality, and these players are stars and they could end up looking like kids forced to dress up for a wedding.

Business casual:

I think the key to these dress codes is there are rules on what they don’twant, but what is the look they are looking for? To look business casual it needs to look smart not really casual. Business casual can end up looking like nothing.

Suits: It seems to be players go with four- button suits, but a three- button suitwould look better. It should ' twell and be tailored to the body and custom ' t around the chest and waist. . . . No padding on shoulder or minimum padding.

Shirts: Basically if you are 6-8, you are going to get looked

at, so there are ways of reducing the effect visuallywith say

a dark navy suit rather than light gray. Similarly you’d

make shirts and ties more low key and not loud.

Shoes: Youwould advise them to ask for a proper

shoe or a classic shoe. A cap- toe oxford would be ideal.

Something where the laces are clean, a simple black

shoe or a wing tipped in a mid brown, which can be worn

as a casual shoe.

One more thing: The strongest trend is the cool, modern style of classic tailoring. Armani is good for all guys. Rapper Jay- Z: The Nets partowner and hip- hop artist is thinking about starting a formal clothing line.

Beverly Smith,

Vibe fashion editor at large

Dress code: I think parts of it are pretty

stringent. Itwould be nice if they could wear

headgear. With something like a fedora, they

could showtheir individuality with that.

Business casual:

Thatwas a couple of

years ago and now

people have gone

back to more traditional dress. They

said that and people

started coming in

dressed like they

were going to a picnic or a barbecue.

The traditional term is khaki pants, oxford shirt

and sport jacket. In some places, very neat ironed

jeans.

Suits: I think a suit is very easy for a man. With a

suit you don’t have to worry. Once you have a suit on, you look put together. You look polished. And it makes an impression.

Shirts: Thomas Pink has a made- to-order program called Personally Pink. They make shirts and ties and pocket squares. It is an English cut shirt, and a lot of playerswho are smaller can buy off the rack. It tends to be longer in the tail. Because if you have to adhere to a dress code and your individuality is being suppressed, the way to get around that rule is to wear beautiful accoutrementswith your suits. Wear really vibrant color. I like pink. Lavender would look great with a gray pinstriped suit.

Shoes: If they go with business casual, Prada makes a great sport shoe that is not a sneaker. There are also driving shoes from Todds.

One more thing:

I would urge them to express themselves with their jewelry. I knowthey can’twear medallions, but there are greatwatches. There are great earrings and great cuf " inks.

Also: Tall men look

great in an overcoat

because they are so

tall. Hugo Boss does beautiful outerwear. This season tweed and herringbone are big. Also: Consider classic Italian like Ermenegildo Zegna. A good Italian suitwill last you forever.