USA TODAY International Edition

Vietnam at crossroads in choosing identity

- Thomas Maresca

One of the HO CHI MINH CITY first stories I ever worked on in Vietnam, almost nine years ago, was a look at how the country’s higher education system was letting down its students, favoring hidebound teaching methods and outdated curricula that left graduates unprepared to enter the workforce.

A visiting scholar I interviewe­d posed a question that still pops into my head from time to time: What kind of country is Vietnam going to be? Thailand? Or Taiwan?

The phrasing was shorthand for the challenge facing many developing countries. Thailand, though a great vacation destinatio­n, is a country whose path to prosperity has been blocked by poor governance, while Taiwan made the leap from exportdriv­en growth to an open and highly advanced economy.

Covering President Obama’s visit here over the past week brought the question once again to the fore. The spotlight focused by Obama’s visit helped me see with fresh eyes how much Vietnam has grown. Physically, its cities have tipped from low- lying and sleepy, if chaotic, to modern urban centers with real skylines and constructi­on cranes as far as the eye can see.

Talking to Vietnamese high school and college students this week, I was struck by how much worldlier they seem than their counterpar­ts five or 10 years older. Digitally savvy and with startlingl­y good English, they casually discussed Obama minutiae, one mentioning how cool his mic drop moment at the White House Correspond­ents’ Dinner a few weeks ago was.

At the same time, Obama’s visit has been a potent reminder of things that haven’t changed.

Vietnam’s human rights record has been on inglorious display this week. There were reports Tuesday from the White House and Human Rights Watch that several members of civil society groups were detained on their way to meet with Obama in Hanoi. Human Rights Watch estimates there are more than 100 political dissidents held in Vietnam, and Amnesty Internatio­nal condemned the recent arrest of six activists protesting the government’s indifferen­t response to a major ecological crisis that killed tons of fish along Vietnam’s central coast.

Somewhere between incredible growth and regressive policies, Vietnam is reaching the next inflection point in its growth.

Economical­ly, Vietnam has made major strides but remains top- heavy, with a bloated and inefficien­t state apparatus dominating many sectors.

Culturally, I wonder what kind of voices Vietnam’s thinkers, artists, writers, musicians and filmmakers will have. The creative spirit is easy to find, but the cultural atmosphere remains sorely underdevel­oped, stifled by censorship and restrictiv­e licensing.

Somewhere between incredible growth and regressive policies, Vietnam is reaching the next inflection point in its growth, one where choices and responsibi­lities shift and in some ways get more difficult. How do you transition from a country that makes sneakers and assembles smartphone­s into a place that innovates? How do you draw on all the talent and potential of an eager, young and dynamic population?

The World Bank — in conjunctio­n with Vietnam’s Ministry of Planning and Investment — laid out a road map to 2035 that highlighte­d the need for private- sector- led growth, greater social inclusion and building modern government institutio­ns. Vietnam’s own Constituti­on lays out the framework for a more open and equitable society, providing for freedom of speech, freedom of the press, the right to assemble and the right to demonstrat­e.

Putting those steps into practice will require openness, transparen­cy and inclusiven­ess from Vietnam’s leadership that we’ve rarely seen.

This week, I caught up with an old friend in Hanoi over lunch, and the conversati­on turned to her son, who’s studying in the USA. Her rundown of his accomplish­ments was jawdroppin­g. A brilliant engineerin­g student, he also was a talented artist, linguist, musician, leader of a student group, entreprene­ur … the list went on and on. I halfjoking­ly said he should come back to run the country someday.

“I don’t know if he will come back,” she replied.

Somehow the question so many years ago seemed airier, more theoretica­l. As Vietnam continues to grow, it becomes more urgent: What kind of country is Vietnam going to be?

 ?? DIEGO AZUBEL, EUROPEAN PRESSPHOTO AGENCY ?? Vietnamese wait for President Obama outside the Jade Pagoda in Ho Chi Minh City.
DIEGO AZUBEL, EUROPEAN PRESSPHOTO AGENCY Vietnamese wait for President Obama outside the Jade Pagoda in Ho Chi Minh City.
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