USA TODAY International Edition
Gordon Ramsay’s Fish & Chips in Las Vegas.
THE SCENE After decades of trying to trap visitors inside mega- casino- resort complexes, Las Vegas has reversed course and embarked on a new strategy of emphasizing its outdoor charms. Several casinos have reworked their facades to add outdoor dining and direct restaurant access, and a handful of entirely new pedestrianized open- air arcades have popped up along the Strip. The highestprofile of these is The LINQ Promenade, a retail, dining, drinking and entertainment passageway between The LINQ and Flamingo Las Vegas casino hotels in the middle of the Strip.
The anchor attraction here is the High Roller, the world’s largest observation wheel, a Vegassized take on the London Eye. The newest and hottest eatery along The LINQ is Gordon Ramsay Fish & Chips, the fourth restaurant in the city from the Hell’s Kitchen and Master Chef TV personality — and one of the world’s five most Michelin- starred chefs. It opened in early October.
The spot very much resembles the classic chip shop found in just about every town in the British Isles, a sidewalk takeaway spot where you order at the counter and fryers are in full view. There is nothing fancy or overtly polished about the place, except for the clever Anglo decorative touches like a red phone booth outside, the working of the Union Jack flag design into the restaurant logo, and the mural inside representing overlapping sheets of newspaper in which fish and chips are traditionally served. Here it comes in fancier cardboard boxes, but it is all to- go, and the menu is small and straightforward. There are a handful of inte- rior tables and a counter along the wall and another front-porchstyle counter outside along The LINQ Promenade, since the weather in Vegas is fine for outdoor dining most of the year.
REASON TO VISIT Fried fish, dirty fries, sausages
THE FOOD While many of the world’s top Michelin- starred chefs are French or cook in the French style, Gordon Ramsay is unapologetically British, and he already has an English pub and a steakhouse in Vegas famed for its beef Wellington. This new venue — featuring his take on his mother’s fish and chips recipe — is a perfect example. It is also his simplest and cheapest spot in town, accessible to fans of his TV appearances who may never lay out the big bucks to visit one of his fine- dining eateries. But despite its humble style, the food does not disappoint.
The main event is fish and chips, but Ramsay offers three other protein choices: fried chick- en and shrimp, as well as a duo of batter- coated sausages on sticks. All four mains are sold as combos with chips ( fries) and a soft drink, with the option to upgrade to beer. A fifth option is to upgrade the basic fish to a fishwich and chips; the two fried cod filets come in a pita with malt- vinegarflavored cole slaw, tomato, arugula and shishito peppers.
In the United Kingdom, Atlantic cod has long been the species of choice for traditional fish and chips. But the species is threatened, and you can’t really tell what whitefish you get under the breading, and especially in U. S. restaurants, it is common to substitute much cheaper fish. Ramsay uses only certified Pacific Cod from Alaska, a fish that is highquality and sustainable. But the key is the coating, which walks the fine line between crispy and crunchy and light, enhancing the fish without drowning it out.
Apparently, his mother knew a thing or two about fish and chips, because this is one of the best versions I have ever tasted, and I’ve had a lot of them, here and in the dish’s homeland. The shrimp is also surprisingly good, using big substantial and meaty crustaceans, not the tasteless popcorn variety often used for fried dishes. But what elevates it is a marinade in lavender and basil beneath the fried coating, adding an exotic but light flavor, and using herbs grown in the employee- run garden at the Flamingo hotel.
The chicken is fine, but I’d skip it for the fish. The fishwich, while generously portioned and a tasty combination of flavors, is hard to eat, and the excellence of the fish filets gets smothered. The sausages are very good, made for Ramsay by a specialty purveyor in New York, Italian- style and studded with little chunks of Fontina cheese. Ramsay even offers his favorite beer here, Scotland’s Innis & Gunn, which is hard to come by in the USA and always worth ordering.
The weakest link for me was the fries, which mainly serve as a foil for the dipping sauces, a choice of two coming with every combo order. There are half a dozen options: ketchup, European- style mayo, Ramsay’s signature tartar, Southwest ranch, and my two favorites, Sriracha aioli and curry mango. The dirty fries are much better; I swooned over the chipotle, jalapeño and crispy chorizo version, but the cacciatore spice with fresh basil was a close second. PILGRIMAGE- WORTHY? Yes. For Ramsay devotees, and for any visitor, this is one of the most affordable and delicious quick eats on the Las Vegas Strip. RATING Yum! ( Scale: Blah, OK, Mmmm, Yum!, OMG!) PRICE $-$$ ($ cheap, $$ moderate, $$$ expensive) DETAILS The LINQ Promenade, 3545 Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas; 702- 322- 0529; gordonramsayrestaurants.com