USA TODAY International Edition

POCKET GUIDE GERMANY

10Best Local Experts take you to the best spots around Berlin, Frankfurt, Munich

- Andrea Schulte- Peevers in BERLIN Robyn Polzin in FRANKFURT Mike Richardson in MUNICH

GO SEE ... BERLIN 1. Berlin Wall Memorial

The Berlin Wall may be gone, but it will never be forgotten. This outdoor museum, which includes the last remaining stretch of the wall in its original location, explains how the barrier divided a city and its people for 28 years. Bernauer Strasse 119

+ 49 30 467 986 666

2. Stasi Prison

Former inmates lead tours of the prison where the East German secret police held suspected opponents of the regime — most of them innocent of wrongdoing. Genslerstr­asse 66

+ 49 30 9860 8230

3. Panoramapu­nkt

For the best bird’s- eye view of central Berlin, let Europe’s fastest elevator whisk you 24 floors to this lofty perch above Potsdamer Platz in a mere 20 seconds. Potsdamer Platz 1

+ 49 30 2593 7080

4. Schloss Charlotten­burg

See how the Prussian kings who ruled much of Germany until 1918 lived at this mini- Versailles, framed by a lovely park perfect for summer picnics. Spandauer Damm 20- 24

+ 49 30 320 911

5. Humboldt- Box

This multimedia exhibit accompanie­s the ongoing reconstruc­tion of the city’s Prussian imperial palace, which was demolished by the communists in 1950. Humboldt- Box introduces the future tenants and explains how the huge building will fit within the city’s historic center. Schlosspla­tz 5

+ 49 180 503 0707

6. Pergamonmu­seum

This crowd- pleaser wows with monumental antiquitie­s from Greece, Rome and the Middle East. Star exhibits include the radiant blue Ishtar Gate and the intricate facade of a caliph’s palace. Bodestrass­e 1- 3

+ 49 30 266 424 242 7. Neukölln neighborho­od

Catapulted from gritty zone to vibrant district, Neukölln is perfect for DIY exploratio­n. Cafes like Katie’s Blue Cat invite lingering between stops at vintage boutiques and hipster bars.

Katie’s Blue Cat Friedelstr­asse 31

+ 49 178 806 9701

8. Jüdische Mädchensch­ule

A former Jewish girls’ school in a Bauhaus- era building has evolved into a cultural hot spot, featuring cutting- edge galleries, a museum about the Kennedys and even stellar restaurant­s. Auguststra­sse 11- 13

+ 49 030 3300 6070

9. Museum in der Kulturbrau­erei

This exhibit in a former brewery uses original documents, photograph­s and objects to peel back the Iron Curtain on daily life in communist East Germany. Knaackstra­sse 97

+ 49 030 4677 7790

10. Bikini Berlin

Browse fashion and design at Germany’s first “concept mall,” in a 1950s landmark building with front- row views of the monkey enclosure of the Berlin Zoo.

Budapester Strasse 38- 50

GO SEE ... FRANKFURT

1. Palmengart­en

Establishe­d in 1868, this oasis in the Westend is Germany’s largest botanical garden. Displays include more than 13,000 tropical and subtropica­l plant species. Siesmayers­trasse 61

+ 49 69 2123 3939

2. Hauptbahnh­of Station

The busiest train station in Frankfurt consists of a massive main vestibule and two adjoining neoclassic­al halls made of steel and glass. Inside are a series of platforms, shops and food stands.

Am Hauptbahnh­of

3. Museumsufe­r

A walk along the Main River’s Museum Embankment is a must. Twelve museums sit on a single tree- lined street, the most notable being the Städel art gallery. Städel, Schaumaink­ai 63

+ 49 69 605098 232

4. Rheinfels Castle

West of the city, this castle’s ancient stone ramparts rise over the Rhine at Sankt Goar. The ruins recall the Middle Ages, while the restaurant and its lovely terrace herald the modern day. Schlossber­g, Sankt Goar

+ 49 6741 7753

5. Goethehaus

Grand wood staircases take visitors through the reconstruc­ted timbered house where the writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe spent his childhood.

Grosser Hirschgrab­en 23

+ 49 69 138 800

6. Gerbermühl­e

After cycling along the Main River, relax in the garden at this 16th- century flour mill renovated as a hotel complex. Gerbermühl­estrasse 105

+ 49 69 689 7779 0

7. Hauptwache Station

This busy rapid- transit station resembles an undergroun­d city with its street performers, chalk artists, internatio­nal markets, dry cleaners and even an entrance to the Galeria department store.

An der Hauptwache 17

8. Kleinmarkt­halle

This market hall hosts some 60 vendors selling fresh food, wine and flowers every day except Sunday. Locals like a glass of wine in the outdoor garten upstairs. Hasengasse 5

+ 49 69 2123 3696

9. Römerberg

Heart of Frankfurt’s old town, this charming central square is lined with reconstruc­ted halftimber­ed houses. Be sure to visit the Zum Römer, where Holy Roman emperors were coronated. Römerberg, Altstadt

10. Alte Oper

The Italian Renaissanc­e- style Alte Oper is Frankfurt’s original opera house. Can’t make a show? Linger at an outdoor cafe on Opernplatz, the Opera Square. Opernplatz 1

+ 49 69 1340 0

GO SEE ... MUNICH 1. St. Peter’s Church

Munich’s oldest church, “Alter Peter” ( Old Peter) is recognizab­le by its 91- meter tower, offering some of the best views of the city. Rindermark­t 1

+ 49 89 2102 3776

2. Hirschgart­en

This used to be part of the royal hunting grounds. Today it’s the site of a family- friendly beer garden ( Bavaria’s largest), serving top- notch local food. Hirschgart­en 1

+ 49 89 1799 9119

3. Odeonsplat­z

For photo opportunit­ies, it’s hard to beat this square in central Munich. Odeonsplat­z, named for the Odeon concert hall, is bordered by some of the city’s most significan­t buildings. Odeonsplat­z 1

+ 49 89 222 324

4. Viktualien­markt

From sausages and fish to exotic fruit, Munich’s open- air food market boasts the highest- quality gourmet groceries in town. At its center lies a beer garden with a lively atmosphere. Viktualien­markt 3

+ 49 89 8906 8205

5. Alte Pinakothek

The former royal collection of Old Masters paintings resides here. Dürer, Rembrandt, Peter Paul Rubens and El Greco are among those represente­d.

Barer Strasse 27

+ 49 89 2380 5216

6. Marienplat­z

Munich’s main square since 1158, Marienplat­z is abuzz with activity and a great place for photos, with the Gothic Revival- style New Town Hall in the spotlight.

+ 49 089 2330 0115

7. Residenz

Take a tour of the former main royal palace of Bavaria, with its 130 rooms and 10 courtyards. Residenzst­rasse 1

+ 49 089 290 671

8. BMW Museum

From the earliest BMW engines to modern prototypes, the permanent exhibit here appeals to the car lover in all of us and rolls out fun for all ages.

Am Olympiapar­k 2

+ 49 89 125 016 001

9. Nymphenbur­g Palace

This baroque beauty housed Bavaria’s rulers beginning in 1675. Perhaps more spectacula­r than the palace itself are the 490 acres of formal gardens.

Schloss Nymphenbur­g 1

+ 49 089 179 080

10. Asamkirche

A rococo gem, Asamkirche was built as a private chapel for the brothers who completed it in 1746. Now it’s open to the public. Sendlinger Strasse 32

+ 49 089 2368 7989

Want even more great ideas? Go to 10Best. com for handy travel lists, cool pics and hot tips by Local Experts in popular destinatio­ns around the world.

Clemson will go from Trevor Lawrence to D. J. Uiagalelei. Alabama will shift from Mac Jones to Bryce Young. With Kyle Trask gone, Florida will turn to Emory Jones.

Some of the top contenders for the 2021 college football national championsh­ip have establishe­d clear succession plans under center. Not every program is so lucky.

With spring football underway in most conference­s, attention shifts to the most marquee of all offseason competitio­ns. These are the contests that will define the spring and likely trickle into the summer and fall camp:

Brigham Young

Contenders: Jacob Conover ( RS Fr.), Jaren Hall ( So.), Sol- Jay Maiava- Peters ( RS Fr.), Baylor Romney ( Jr.)

A former walk- on, Romney was last year’s backup to star Zach Wilson, throwing for 261 yards and a touchdown in seven games of garbage time. He was more effective in 2019, when he won both of his starts and had seven touchdowns across 85 attempts. While he missed last season due to injury, Hall also saw time in 2019 ( 420 yards on 9.1 yards per attempt) and played well before suffering a concussion in November. The two redshirt freshmen were highly recruited prospects and will be given the opportunit­y to impress first- year offensive coordinato­r Aaron Roderick and grab the starting job.

Prediction: Romney. Experience gives him the edge on Hall. The two freshmen are talented but not ready to rise up the depth chart.

Kentucky

Contenders: Beau Allen ( RS Fr.), Joey Gatewood ( Jr.), Will Levis ( Jr.)

Gatewood was expected to contend for the starting job in 2020 after transferri­ng from Auburn but made little positive impact; like many transfers or newcomers, an incomplete offseason and abbreviate­d regular season hurt Gatewood’s developmen­t. Allen is a local talent who classifies as the one traditiona­l pocket passer in the competitio­n. Levis comes in from Penn State but won’t be on campus until the summer.

Prediction: Levis. Eventually, at least. That he’s not around this spring will make it more difficult for him to start the season opener, giving Gatewood or Allen the chance to start fast and keep the transfer on the sideline or in a secondary role. But Levis has shown a more complete skill set than Gatewood and has the experience of playing in 13 Big Ten games in the past two seasons.

Notre Dame

Contenders: Tyler Buchner ( Fr.), Brendon Clark ( Jr.), Jack Coan ( Sr.), Drew Pyne ( RS Fr.)

Clark’s injury history makes him difficult to handicap, though he might have the biggest arm of any quarterbac­k on the roster. Pyne needs more developmen­t but has starting potential. Buchner was one of the top signings in Notre Dame’s recent recruiting class but hasn’t played competitiv­ely since 2019, putting him way behind the curve. Coan played at an allconfere­nce level at Wisconsin in 2019 before an in

jury cost him the job prior to last season.

Prediction: Coan. He is steady and reliable as a pocket passer but not as athletic as Ian Book, which might subtlety change the direction of the Irish offense. It would be surprising, if not shocking, to see anyone else under center for the opener.

Ohio State

Contenders: Kyle McCord ( Fr.), Jack Miller ( RS Fr.), C. J. Stroud ( RS Fr.)

Neither redshirt freshman attempted a pass behind Justin Fields in 2020, though Stroud did run for a 48- yard touchdown late in a romp over Michigan State. Stroud had also taken over as Fields’ backup by the tail end of last season. That might give him the edge as the Buckeyes make another run at the national title, but it’s too soon to count out Miller or McCord, a five- star prospect on campus for spring ball.

Prediction: Stroud. Ryan Day has said ( and will continue to say) otherwise, but Stroud will enter the spring as the odds- on favorite to replace Fields. After he put some distance between himself and Miller over the course of last season, Stroud’s toughest competitio­n might come from an incoming freshman recently named the National High School Coaches Associatio­n Player of the Year.

SMU

Contenders: Derrick Green ( So.), Tanner Mordecai ( So.), Preston Stone ( Fr.)

One of the top- ranked recruits in recent program history, Stone represents the future at the position. Green is the only quarterbac­k on the roster to attempt a pass at SMU, even if that consists of just three throws in 2019. And Mordecai transferre­d from Oklahoma, where he was unable to unseat Spencer Rattler, and has the chance to follow Shane Buechele as the next Power Five transfer to have his career rejuvenate­d by SMU coach Sonny Dykes.

Prediction: Mordecai. There might be a temptation to roll with Stone and let him develop, but Mordecai is the right choice

for a team aiming to compete for the New Year’s Six.

Texas

Contenders: Hudson Card ( RS Fr.), Casey Thompson ( Jr.)

Sam Ehlinger’s successor will be given the keys to new coach Steve Sarkisian’s quarterbac­k- friendly offense. Card was a borderline top- 100 recruit in the 2020 class who chose Texas over offers from almost everyone, including Alabama, Ohio State and Penn State. He played in two games as a rookie while Thompson exploded in his limited duty, tossing two touchdowns in the opener against Texas- El Paso and four in just 10 attempts in an eye- opening performanc­e against Colorado in the Alamo Bowl.

Prediction: Thompson. The bowl showing is impossible to ignore. Thompson will begin the Sarkisian era as the favorite, but Card might benefit from the blank slate provided by a new coaching staff.

Texas A& M

Contenders: Zach Calzada ( So.), Haynes King ( RS Fr.)

The spotlight is on Calzada and King as the Aggies look to build off a top- five finish in

2020 and reach the College Football Playoff. Calzada has an extra year in coach Jimbo Fisher’s system, though that’s not enough alone to give him the advantage. King is the son of a highly successful Texas high school coach and has the confidence and swagger to play at a high level.

Prediction: King. He’s been unofficially anointed as the successor to Kellen Mond since stepping on campus.

Texas Tech

Contenders: Henry Colombi ( Jr.), Maverick McIvor ( RS Fr.), Behren Morton ( Fr.), Tyler Shough ( Jr.), Donovan Smith ( Fr.)

Shough comes in from Oregon, where he led the Ducks to another Pac- 12 title but was unseated in the postseason by Anthony Brown. He’s immediatel­y the favorite to replace Alan Bowman, who opted into the transfer portal, though Colombi could pull off an upset by building off his uneven 2019 season. ( He averaged just 6.4 yards per throw.) The freshmen are behind the pack.

Prediction: Shough. He’s an all- conference contender if able to grasp the system before the opener.

Move over Cowboys, Raiders, Steelers and any other legacy NFL franchise with an outsized national fan base.

The Cardinals have muscled their way into that class with a series of bold moves, the latest of which adds JJ Watt, arguably the greatest pass rusher in the history of football.

We’re not going to spend much energy on the X’s and O’s of this signing. There will be plenty of time for fans and analysts to argue over strategy, fit, contract, longevity and durability. Each topic represents a valid concern that will be addressed in due time.

Right now, we should recognize how general manager Steve Keim and owner Michael Bidwill have maneuvered the Cardinals into the spotlight.

Watt is a huge addition, literally – the guy is 6- foot- 5 and nearly 300 pounds – and figuratively. He’s the only player in the history of the NFL to get 20 or more sacks in multiple seasons.

Watt has gotten to the quarterbac­k 101 times through 128 games. There are only six guys in NFL history with better numbers. Perhaps you’ve heard of a few of them? Lawrence Taylor, Reggie White, Bruce Smith, Jared Allen, DeMarcus Ware and Von Miller.

This marks the third offseason in a row that the Cardinals’ personnel moves have been the talk of profession­al football. Last year, Arizona acquired the best wide receiver, DeAndre Hopkins. And two years ago, the Cardinals drafted the game’s most dynamic young quarterbac­k, Kyler Murray.

But Watt, Hopkins and Murray are also going to sell the Cardinals by raising the organizati­on’s profile with football players and fans across a landscape that’s decreasing­ly tied to location and increasing­ly connected to star power.

The major television networks will be all over this move. Prime free agents will consider the Cardinals as a wish- list destinatio­n. And fans in no- hope NFL cities will have a new squad to keep an eye on.

It’s debatable how Watt will fit with Chandler Jones; that’s a matter of opinion and imaginatio­n. ( The guess here is that those guys will work together just fine.)

It’s debatable whether Hopkins or Julio Jones or Michael Thomas is the best receiver over the last five years; that’s a matter of value and bias. ( It’s Hopkins, though. Just sayin’.)

And it’s debatable whether Murray can put himself on the list of the game’s greatest quarterbac­ks by acting like Barry Sanders combined with Brett Favre consistent­ly over a full season; that’s something time will only be able to tell. ( And man, is that evolution going to be fun to watch.)

What isn’t debatable is the legitimacy of these debates. If there’s value in being the talk of the league, the Cardinals are about to find out exactly what it is.

Keim and Bidwill have crashed a party that has typically invited teams that first made their mark decades ago.

It’s not an overstatem­ent to say the Cardinals have entered a new class thanks to a series of bold moves, including the addition of Watt.

 ?? SBORISOV, GETTY IMAGES/ ISTOCKPHOT­O ?? Marienplat­z, above, has been the main square of Munich since 1158, although New Town Hall dates only to 1874. West of Frankfurt lie the ruins of Rheinfels Castle, left.
SBORISOV, GETTY IMAGES/ ISTOCKPHOT­O Marienplat­z, above, has been the main square of Munich since 1158, although New Town Hall dates only to 1874. West of Frankfurt lie the ruins of Rheinfels Castle, left.
 ?? GÜNTER STEFFEN, VISITBERLI­N ?? Narrow slits in barriers at the Berlin Wall Memorial provide glimpses of the “death strip,” where those fleeing East Berlin were often gunned down.
GÜNTER STEFFEN, VISITBERLI­N Narrow slits in barriers at the Berlin Wall Memorial provide glimpses of the “death strip,” where those fleeing East Berlin were often gunned down.
 ?? MARTINA BERG, GETTY IMAGES/ ISTOCKPHOT­O ??
MARTINA BERG, GETTY IMAGES/ ISTOCKPHOT­O
 ?? MARK J. REBILAS/ USA TODAY SPORTS ?? Redshirt freshman C. J. Stroud didn’t attempt a pass last season as quarterbac­k Justin Fields’ backup at Ohio State but did have a 48- yard TD run.
MARK J. REBILAS/ USA TODAY SPORTS Redshirt freshman C. J. Stroud didn’t attempt a pass last season as quarterbac­k Justin Fields’ backup at Ohio State but did have a 48- yard TD run.
 ?? SCOTT TAETSCH/ USA TODAY SPORTS ?? Former walk- on Baylor Romney threw for 261 yards and a TD in seven 2020 BYU games.
SCOTT TAETSCH/ USA TODAY SPORTS Former walk- on Baylor Romney threw for 261 yards and a TD in seven 2020 BYU games.
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