USA TODAY International Edition
From lush Uruguayan beaches, ride the tide and pack your SPF
Uruguay is one of the most underrated beach destinations in South America with 410 miles of pristine coastline. The Río de la Plata creates a beach- like shore between the west of Punta del Este, Maldonado, to the capital city of Montevideo. At the tip of the Punta del Este peninsula, the river collides with the Atlantic Ocean which stretches up the coast to Brazil.
The beaches in Uruguay are mostly untouched. There are few beach clubs with lounge chairs and umbrellas in the posh enclaves of Punta del Este and José Ignacio, but most beaches are raw with purely wild nature. Beach- goers tend to congregate their beach chairs ( which are constantly rotated to face the sun – even if that means not facing the water) near parking lots and amenities including porta- potties and stalls selling cold soft drinks and bags of chips which are necessary beach snacks for Uruguayans along with yerba mate and, for some, a joint of legalized marijuana.
My childhood memories are laden with frolicking along these picture- perfect Uruguayan beaches, especially playing in the tide pools in Playa de Los Ingleses in Punta del Este where we’d always stay when we’d visit my father’s homeland. When we visited Uruguay, we’d drive east to the beach- side state of Rocha where my father was born and collect seashells in La Paloma.
Sunny days caress Uruguay from November to March with the busiest beach season being mid- December to midJanuary during the holidays. Uruguayans avoid the dangerous UV rates that can reach 11 by deserting the beaches from 11 A. M. to 1 P. M. If you plan to stay at the beach in the afternoon bring a beach umbrella and mineral SPF 50 to protect your skin. And wear a sun hat and sunglasses to protect your eyes, as Uruguayan beaches tend to have strong bursts of wind throughout the day. Here are some of the best beaches in Uruguay:
Playa Los Cangrejos, La Barra, Maldonado
This protected bay has the most aquamarine water in Uruguay. Many of Uruguay’s beaches have rough sand and are laden with seashells, but Los Cangrejos has fine sand.
When you enter the bay, pay heed to the lifeguards’ flags as they mark the sections of water without rocks. As this beach is right in the darling town of La Barra, you can find parking along the residential streets and pick up snacks at the grocery store or grab a smoothie bowl from Mahalo Bowls. This is a great spot for a beginner surf lesson, or go out on the water on stand- up paddleboards, join stand- up paddleboard yoga classes, and take a kitesurfing lesson in the nearby Arroyo Maldonado.
El Emir, Punta del Este, Maldonado
If you’re staying in Punta del Este, you must walk by Playa Brava to see the famous “La Mano” sculpture created by Chilean artist Mario Irarrázabal that warns beachgoers of the strong current in the Atlantic Ocean.
During the summer this beach is so overrun with tourists you won’t find an empty spot in the sand. Instead, walk further down the peninsula to the tiny El Emir beach early in the morning to watch surfers. The beach is easily accessible on foot from anywhere on the peninsula and there’s a well- kept portapotty on the beach.
Chihuahua, Maldonado
After climbing over the sand dunes you’ll reach Uruguay’s nudist beach, Chihuahua. The beach is extremely long so you can easily find a place to sunbathe in your birthday suit without an audience if you prefer.
There’s one restaurant here that pops up for the summer but otherwise, there are very few amenities, so bring your own refreshments.
Isla Gorriti, Maldonado
It’s worth the trip to take the public ferry ride and see the views of Punta del Este, but the beach at Isla Gorriti is small and is covered in pebbles. If you plan to enjoy the beach bring water shoes and a chair or thick towel to lay on. You can buy snacks and drinks on the island or bring your own refreshments.
Punta del Diablo, Rocha
Every summer, this sleepy fishing village becomes a hot spot for bohemian beachgoers who flock to rustic accommodations and nosh on buñuelos ( seaweed fritters).
At Playa de Los Pescadores in the center of town, you can lounge in the shade of a traditional wooden fishing vessel. Surfers love Playa Viuda to the west of town, and Playa Grande to the east is perfect for a long stroll on the beach. Sand dune boarding is popular all around the area.
Cabo Polonio, Rocha
Reached only by a double- decker truck, Cabo Polonio is a protected National Park surrounded by sand dunes and tiny houses. You’ll likely come across sea lions as you relax on the beach.
The best sunset spot in town is behind the lighthouse where hundreds of sea lions relax on the rocky shore.