Pe­riph­eral Aura

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— Carl Friedrich Bucherer es­tab­lished his first watch and jew­elry bou­tique in the Swiss city of Lucerne in 1888, mak­ing 2018 the 130th an­niver­sary of his epony­mous com­pany, which in 1919 also be­gan mak­ing its own lux­ury time­pieces. With the re­lease of the Her­itage Tour­bil­lon Dou­blepe­riph­eral Lim­ited Edi­tion, the mod­ern Carl F. Bucherer watch brand pays an im­pres­sive homage to both its watch­mak­ing his­tory and to the an­cient baroque city of its ori­gins. Lim­ited to just 88 pieces (a ref­er­ence to the year of the firm’s found­ing), the watch has a 42.5mm-di­am­e­ter case made of 18k rose gold, with a domed, non­re­flec­tive sap­phire crys­tal over the dial, an ad­di­tional sap­phire win­dow in the case­back and water re­sis­tance of 30 me­ters. Through that crys­tal-clear case­back, one can view the stun­ningly dec­o­ra­tive move­ment, a spe­cially em­bel­lished ver­sion of Bucherer’s re­cently re­leased, in-house-de­vel­oped Cal­iber CFB T3000, which is self-wind­ing by means of a pe­riph­eral ro­tor and in­cor­po­rates a tour­bil­lon cage that is also sup­ported pe­riph­er­ally, by three ce­ramic ball bear­ings. In this ver­sion, the move­ment bridge, which cov­ers nearly the en­tire back of the move­ment, aside from the tour­bil­lon cage, is crafted from 18k white gold and hand-en­graved with an il­lus­tra­tion of the Lucerne cityscape. e en­grav­ing, which re­quires more than two weeks of painstak­ing, de­tail-ori­ented work by a master crafts­man, is high­lighted by the large cen­tral im­age of the Lucerne bridge, the city’s iconic sym­bol. Even more note­wor­thy, each of the 88 pieces is by def­i­ni­tion unique be­cause of an­other spe­cial de­tail in the 3D de­pic­tion of Lucerne – a swan, the po­si­tion of which dif­fers slightly in each piece, which sym­bol­izes Lucerne’s Sch­wa­nen­platz (“Swan Space”), the square where the first Bucherer bou­tique opened in 1888, not far from the cur­rent lo­ca­tion.

From a tech­ni­cal stand­point, Cal­iber CFBT3000 (for which two patents have been filed) of­fers other at­tributes: it uses lowfric­tion, an­ti­mag­netic sil­i­con for the es­cape­ment’s pal­let and es­cape fork, dis­pens­ing with the need for lu­bri­ca­tion, an ef­fi­ciency that in­creases the power re­serve to 65 hours. It is also equipped with a stop sec­onds func­tion for easy syn­chro­niza­tion with a time sig­nal. And for those who value op­ti­mum pre­ci­sion, it has earned a COSC chronome­ter cer­ti­fi­ca­tion. The tour­bil­lon cage dom­i­nates the lower part of the sil­ver, sun­burst-fin­ished dial, in a large aper­ture at 12 o’clock, where it ro­tates on its own axis once ev­ery minute and drives a hand that dis­plays the run­ning sec­onds. Above it, rose-gold-plated, di­a­mond­shaped ap­plied in­dexes and gold­plated lancet hands in­di­cate the time, sur­rounded on the dial’s pe­riph­ery by milled rings that ac­cen­tu­ate the dial’s some­what con­cave de­sign. The tour­bil­lon’s con­struc­tion, ac­cord­ing to CFB, not only makes for a more sta­ble con­nec­tion and smoother run­ning, but also makes it ap­pear to be float­ing in­side the watch, with an un­hin­dered view from both above and below, while the ball bear­ings them­selves re­main hid­den from view. The Carl F. Bucherer Her­itage Tour­bil­lon Dou­blepe­riph­eral Lim­ited Edi­tion is mounted on a dark brown Louisiana al­li­ga­tor strap with an 18k gold fold­ing pin buckle. The price is $88,888.

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